The information on this site about breeding cockatiels is a brief and basic overview of the subject and it's not meant to replace the recommendations of your avian vet. Breeding is strongly discouraged for those who work full time, for those who are full time students and for those who are new to the world of cockatiels. Although cockatiel chicks are precious little bundles of fuzz and miracles to behold, they are born completely helpless when they hatch. They are born naked, with their eyes closed and they are totally dependent on their parents for food and warmth. The life or death of a chick will also be held in the palm of your hand as well, because as the breeder, you are responsible for taking care of the parents and for monitoring the health, growth and development of chicks. Babies and parents will often have health problems that require treatment from an avian vet. If you can not afford to or you are unwilling to pay an avian vet if one of your birds develops a health problem, you should not even consider breeding birds. To do so would be completely irresponsible and heartless.
Failure to Breed: Female cockatiels are fertile up until 8-10 years of age and males are fertile up until 12-14 years of age. There are always exceptions and it's possible for a very healthy, well nourished bird, with a strong genetic tendency for breeding, to be fertile for even longer. Breeding cockatiels, even within these age ranges, can be a disappointing experience. Birds that are bred in captivity do not always make the best parents. Both breeding and parenting skills are learned and genetically inherited behaviors. Breeding pairs that lack experience may traumatize, eat or abandon eggs and chicks from the first few clutches. Some adult breeding pairs may not produce a clutch of eggs for several months or years. Other pairs may never breed successfully at all because of infertility. Infertility in pet birds can be the result of nutritional, medical, behavioral or environmental problems. Some specific causes of infertility include: malnourishment, obesity, nutritional deficiencies, disease, bacterial or fungal infections, reproductive disorders, hormonal imbalances, birds being too young or too old, improper mating due to inexperienced pairs not making actual physical contact, interruption of mating due to disturbances by a human or another pet near the nesting area, not enough time given for pairs to fully bond with each other, same gender pairs that are mistaken for a true male/female pair, forced pairing instead of allowing birds to choose their own mates, lack of water for bathing, unavailable soft foods which are needed to feed chicks, insufficient exposure to daylight hours and or UVA/UVB lighting, using the wrong type or size of nestbox, nesting material that is unacceptable to a breeding pair, and improper humidity levels or indoor temperatures. (Source: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997)
Selecting Birds for Breeding Choosing a healthy, well nourished pair of adult birds that are not related to each other is vital for successful breeding and healthy chicks. A pre-breeding health check for breeding pairs by an avian vet, which includes blood tests and gram stains, is always advisable to determine if the birds have any sub-clinical infections or nutritional deficiencies. Another factor to consider is the age of breeding pairs. Cockatiels should not be allowed to breed until they are at least 18 months old. Even though they are physically "capable" of breeding as young as 5-6 months of age, young males can be infertile and young females can suffer from health complications like egg binding. When parents are still juveniles themselves, breeding also depletes their own young, growing bodies of the nutrients necessary that they need themselves to grow into healthy adult birds. The babies of young, juvenile parents may be born weaker and less healthy then the offspring of adult birds as we. Breeding cockatiels that are related to each other and with the same bloodline should also be avoided. Birth defects and health problems in the offspring of related birds are common. Some physical abnormalities associated with inbreeding include: Deformed, misaligned or missing beaks or nares, deformed or missing wings, legs or toes, orthopedic problems that affect a bird's ability to perch, climb, walk or fly, malfunctioning organs, infertile offspring and offspring that are more susceptible to disease. Other problems associated with inbreeding include a decreased production of eggs, infertility of eggs and decreased hatching rates of eggs. Only healthy, adult birds that are from different bloodlines should be allowed to breed.
When to Breed Cockatiels: The natural breeding season for cockatiels in the wild is Spring to Early Autumn. This is when breeding conditions are the most favorable, with warmer temperatures, more hours of natural daylight each day and when both food and rainfall are more plentiful. More hours of daylight, more frequent baths or water misting, a healthy diet that includes breeder's pellets as well as soft foods 3 months before breeding season and the presence of a cockatiel nestbox will encourage breeding in captivity. Cockatiels are prolific breeders and they will breeding in captivity all year long, if allowed to do so. However, clutches should be limited to no more than 2 per year, the amount that avian veterinarians consider normal. Although indoor conditions are always favorable for breeding indoors, due to exposure to long hours of artificial lighting, an ample food and water supply and a sense of security, breeding continuously all year long, seriously compromises a bird's health . Every effort should be made limit a pair's breeding to no more than 2 clutches of eggs a year. Your birds need to rest during the remainder of the year to build up strength for the next breeding season. Breeding is physically and psychologically stressful for birds and stress impairs a bird's immune system. Excessive egg laying also depletes a female's body of calcium as well as other nutrients. Depletion of calcium from egg laying can cause seizures, egg binding as well as sudden death. Continuous breeding all year long also puts a tremendous amount of physical strain on a female bird's reproductive organs. A prolapsed cloaca and uterus (cloaca or uterus protrudes out from the vent) are usually associated with chronic egg laying and they both requires surgery to correct. It's important that you prevent your birds from over breeding. Only healthy, adult cockatiels that are well rested and well nourished, should be paired for breeding.
The Nestbox and Nesting Materials: Each breeding pair should have their own nestbox. with 1 pair of birds per cage. The size of a cockatiel nestbox is, 9"-11"-12" with a 2 and 1/4 inch opening.Line the nestbox with a several layers of soft but slightly textured white paper towels to absorb moisture and to prevent chicks from developing splayed legs or other leg deformities from a wet, slippery bottom. Make a small dent or well in the center. This is called a nest bowl and it will help to prevent the eggs from rolling around. Some birds will toss out the paper towels. Cloth baby diapers or unfrayed woven cotton towels can be used as a nesting substrate as well. They can also be tossed into the washing machine to sanitize as needed. Wrong types of nesting materials include: any type of liter, corncob bedding, or walnut shells. These are all organic materials that will promote the growth of bacteria and mold spores when wet. The use of pine, cedar, aspen or other wood chips/shavings should also be avoided. Cedar is toxic and the fumes and dust from other wood type bedding materials contain fumes and dust that will irritate a bird's eyes and respiratory system. Another negative aspect of all of these unsuitable nesting materials is that they are not digestible and they cause digestive impactions if swallowed. (Source of Hatching Information: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997) Some impactions can be treated by avian vets with digestive enzymes and antibiotics. Other impactions require surgical removal or they can cause death. The lutino chick in the upper left has a digestive impaction from ingesting aspen shavings. Other poor choices for nesting materials include shredded newspaper or terry cloth towels with loops. Toenails can get caught in strips of paper and towel threads, cutting off the circulation in a bird's leg. This can cause permanent neurological damage to toes, foot or leg and in some case, amputation of the limb may be necessary.
Egg Laying and Nesting: Eggs are laid about 7-10 days after a pair mates successfully. The process of egg laying, from ovary to fertilization, development of shell to actual egg laying is approximately 2-3 days. You can expect your female to lay 1 egg about every 48 hours. until a clutch of 2-8 eggs is laid. Prior to egg laying and during the egg laying process, the female will have very large and odorous droppings, which is normal. Fecal matter will be retained in the cloaca until they are eliminated in the morning. (Failure to pass droppings could mean egg binding. Information and symptoms of egg binding can be found on a link at the bottom of this page). Sometimes the parents will wait until 2 or 3 eggs are present before nesting on eggs. The purpose is so that most of the eggs will hatch around the same time. Eggs do not start to incubate until they are nested on and get warm and eggs can stay viable for up to 7 days before nesting is need. If parents are reluctant to go inside of the nestbox, hang a strip of millet seed near the entrance hole.
Eggs laid on the bottom of the cage floor may still hatch although literature suggests that they rarely do. If your bird lays eggs on the cage floor, put up a nestbox and place the eggs inside. Hanging a strip of millet seed spray near the entrance hole may encourage them to enter the nestbox. If your birds will not accept a nestbox, you can try using an alternate type of nest on the bottom of the cage. Alternate, non-conventional nests include a shallow glass Pyrex baking dish, a glass, deep dish pie plate, a shallow glass soup bowl or a basket with several layers of white paper towels and placed on the cage floor. Some birds may be more willing to accept an alternate nesting site once eggs have already been laid on the floor. If they won't accept it, you can try putting the eggs on a folded cloth diaper, a folded dishtowel or a washcloth that does not have loops for toenails to get caught. (Always wash your hands with hot soapy water and use a hand sanitizer before handling eggs.) Sometime breeding birds will reject an egg by pushing it to the side of the nest, abandoning it. The parents may be able to sense a lack of movement inside of a defective egg. Because abandoned eggs become chilled quickly, the embryos will die if they are not moved back to near the parents, put inside of an incubator or placed with foster parents, (another pair of birds that have already been successful at breeding a clutch of birds.) .
Aggressiveness while Breeding: When a pair of compatible, bonded cockatiels are breeding, they will either nest on eggs together or they will take turns nesting on eggs. Breeding pairs should not be separated unless one of the birds is in danger of being in jured by a very aggressive mate. A very aggressive bird can injure, mutilate or kill a mate. The male is usually the offending partner and his actions will include pecking at the female's feet, eyes, nares or chasing her around the cage, blocking her entrance to the nestbox or not allowing her access to food or water dishes. Some speculate that the male wants to mate with a non-cooperative partner. Male jealousy of the attention that the female is giving to eggs/chicks has also been cited as a cause. Mild squabbling between partners during the breeding process is normal. The female may get upset if the male wants to enter the nestbox or the male may not allow the female to nest on eggs once they are laid. This usually subsides as the breeding process progresses. After eggs hatch, females may take on a more passive role, while the male takes on a more dominant role feeding the chicks. It's normal for the parents to be aggressive towards you when breeding. They are doing their job and protecting their eggs and babies.
Humidity, Egg Turning and Broken Eggs Provide your birds with a shallow dish of water to bathe in each day. When parents wet the feathers on their lower body feathers, eggs are kept moist during the nesting phase. This will help to maintain the humidity level that embryos need to develop properly. Your birds will also turn the eggs once every hour during the day and some pairs will also turn them during the night. Turning eggs helps to maintain a uniform temperature on both the upper and lower side of the egg. Turning also prevents the baby from sticking to the shell membrane and it helps organs to develop properly. If you notice eggs that with a hairline crack, you can repair them by applying a thin coat of white, non-toxic, water soluble glue such as Elmer's Glue. A Larger crack can be repaired by placing a tiny piece of gauze or a single layer of unscented tissue over it and then applying several coats of glue. Wait 30 minutes between applications. The area repaired has to be minimal or oxygen exchange through pores in the egg may be impaired. Repaired eggs should also be watched closely during hatching because the chick may have trouble breaking through a large, thick seal and may need help during hatching. Since the glue is water soluble, applying sterile water with a small paintbrush to moisten the repaired area will allow you to carefully remove the tissue during hatching. Always wash your hands with soap and hot water and use a hand sanitizer before handling eggs. Eggs are porous and harmful bacteria on your hands will get inside of the egg, harming the chick.
Candling and Fertile Eggs: By candling eggs, (looking at them under a very bright light) you will be able to see if the eggs are fertile. Candle the eggs on day 5 of actual nesting. Eggs will become more difficult to candle as the growing chick fills the shell. For the professional breeder, Purchase a candling light that you can hold directly over the eggs in the nestbox without having to touch or move the egg. Use extreme care when handling the eggs being careful not to roll, shake, tilt or spin. Always wash your hands with hot soapy water and use a hand sanitizer before touching the eggs and don't hold them for too long. Eggs are porous and any harmful bacteria on your hands can enter the egg, harming the growing chick. Eggs that are held too long will overheat and the chick will be destroyed.
Fertile eggs will have a red spider like appearance. There will be a dark spot in the center and you will see red veins developing. There will also be a white space inside of the wider part the egg. This is called the air cell and the air cell will get larger as the chick grows. Eggs that have not been fertile will not have red blood vessels. They will appear clear with a yellow glow from the yolk. Infertile eggs should not be removed from the nestbox unless they are broken or cracked. These additional eggs will help to maintain warmth for fertile eggs and they will protect fertile eggs from rolling around. Mark each fertile egg with a non-toxic, soft, felt tipped marker so you will know when to expect hatching. A few days before the expected hatch date, eggs should be candled one more time, to monitor for live chicks and to see if the chick has re-positioning into the air cell. Put a small dot with a felt tip marker on top of the egg so you will know which side to put back down into the nestbox after candling. Be extremely careful to keep the egg level, making sure that that the egg does not tilt, roll over, turn to the side or turn around. If the chick is already in the process of hatching, it can lose orientation. If an egg was fertile and the embryo died, you will see a patchy or solid ring of blood around the circumference of the egg. A "blood ring" will lack the tiny, spreading blood vessels that are visible in a living embryo because those tiny veins have died and clotted. (A link to an article on the bottom of this page, "Eggs Not Hatching", will explain some of the main causes of DIS (Dead in Shell) babies. Please take the time to read it.)
Hatching:Cockatiel eggs hatch 18-21 days after nesting begins. A few days before hatching, the air cell (located at the wider side of the egg) will become larger and start to tilt. The baby will then reposition itself and move into the air cell. This is called "drawdown". Once inside of the air cell, the baby starts pneumonic breathing with its lungs. As the chick becomes more active during the hatching process, oxygen inside of the air cell will be depleted and carbon dioxide levels will increase, causing the baby's abdominal and neck muscles to contract. The contractions of the neck and abdomen will force the chick's back up against the shell, causing the feet to push against the opposite side of the shell. Muscle contractions of the neck will cause the "egg tooth", located inside of the beak, to start puncturing and breaking away at the inner shell. The first visible external sign of hatching will be an external pip mark. An external pip mark is a small bump or dent with tiny cracks on the outside of the shell. The pip mark will become larger, encircling the entire shell in one direction, as the baby chips away at the shell and hatching progresses. Once the shell is punctured and the baby starts to breath room air you may be able to hear vocalization.
You can expect cockatiel eggs to hatch 24-36 hours after the first appearance of the external pip mark. NOTE: Signs of hatching problems include: no external pip mark 36 hours after the air cell tilts; no change in appearance at the original pip mark site after 48 hours; if a baby pips 1/4 to 1/2 way around the egg and then stops for an extended period of time; if the baby reverses directions to return to the initial pip site and if vocalization ceases. Contact your avian vet if any of these situations occur. The baby may need assistance in hatching. (Source of Hatching Information: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997)
Visually Inspect Each Newly Hatched Chick to evaluate its physical condition. Normal, healthy chicks will have yellowish-pink skin with a supple, warm feel. Dehydrated nestlings will be thin and wrinkled, with dry skin that looks red or muddy and feels sticky to the touch. Chicks with white, cool skin are either hypothermic, (abnormally cold) or moribund (close to death). Right after hatching the parents will remove pieces of egg shell and other materials from the chicks. When they are finished, the baby will look clean and fluffy. Empty egg shells from the nestbox should be removed as soon as possible after hatching to prevent bacteria from growing. Parents may wait 6-8 hours until the baby is dry before giving them their first feeding. Nutrition is already being provided by the yolk sac which was absorbed prior to hatching. Dehydration is the most serious complication right after hatching. If the baby is dehydrated, administer 1 drop of warm Pedialyte and do not repeat unless you can see the fluid pass through chick's crop and the chick has passed 1 dropping. Some breeders will routinely give all babies 1 drop of warm Pedialyte or sterile water (boiled 10 minutes then cooled) when they first hatch to help prevent dehydration. If a normal dropping is passed, one drop is administered every hour. Hand feeding newly hatched chicks with formula during this period should be avoided because the crop is so tiny. As the baby starts to grow and begins to consume more food, the crop will stretch out gradually by itself.
Note Females that are laying eggs will lose calcium. Provide plenty of additional calcium in her diet from a cuttlebone, fresh dark green vegetables such as kale, spinach, endive, chard, parsley, beet greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, watercress, broccoli leaves and stalks. Low blood calcium will cause soft shelled eggs and egg binding as well as seizures or sudden death.Female cockatiels are fertile until 8-10 years of ages and male cockatiels are fertile until 12-14 years of age. However, it is very possible for a healthy, well nourished bird to be fertile for even more years. Most healthy, well nourished females are capable of laying eggs their entire lives. However, eggs laid by geriatric birds are usually "duds" and can not be fertilized
Dirty Nestboxes: One of the main causes of chick mortality is poor hygiene on the part of the breeder. Baby birds are born with virtually no working immune system so they are more susceptible to getting bacterial or fungal infections from your hands, ordinary household objects and an environment that has been contaminated with disease causing organisms. Harmful bacteria and mold can grow and thrive in a nestbox filled with droppings and food. The nestbox should be cleaned each day after the babies are born. A good time to do this is when both parents come out to eat. By sliding a piece of cardboard through the cage bars and blocking off the entrance, parents can be prevented from re-entering the nestbox while you work. Put the babies in a small bowl that has been lined with white, unscented tissue paper or a clean, tightly woven cotton towel. Work quickly so the babies do not get chilled. Scrape the sides of the nestbox, remove soiled nesting material, replace with clean nesting material then put the babies back inside. Remove the cardboard so the parents can re-enter the nestbox. Always be careful not to startle or frighten the parents. If they panic, they may trample on the babies and injure them.
How Parents Feed Chicks Parents will regurgitate the food that they eat to feed to their babies and both parents take turns feeding the chicks. The parents need excellent nutrition and a constant supply of food to feed chicks so chicks can grow strong and healthy. Parents will also be extremely hungry when feeding babies. If you're not providing enough food for them, they will frantically pace back and forth. Provide at least 2 food dishes filled with pellets and seeds at all times and serve a soft, fresh food diet to parents throughout the day. Most breeding pairs are not finicky about food and they will eagerly consume a soft food diet when one is offered. Fresh foods can be served in the morning and evening but most conscientious breeders provide fresh foods throughout the day and whenever they see the parents feeding babies.
Suggested Soft Foods: Moistened pellets, cooked oatmeal, cooked brown rice, cooked pasta, baked mashed sweet potatoes, whole wheat toast, fresh corn, peas, carrots, broccoli, dark green leafy vegetables, apples, bananas, pears and well cooked, mashed hard boiled egg yolk can all be served to breeding parents. You can also offer parents mixed hand feeding formula with their fresh foods as well. Fresh foods should be served in very small pieces or they can be mashed or put them through a food processor or blender. You can also lightly steam vegetables if your birds prefer them this way. Mashed and steamed vegetables are sometimes more acceptable to a breeding pair reluctant to eat fresh foods. Take fresh food out after 1-2 hours depending on the indoor temperature.( Food spoils faster in hot weather). Take out EGGS after 30 minutes. Eggs spoil much faster than other foods. Change your bird's drinking water a few times a day so it is always fresh and clean. Wash food and water dishes in hot soapy water after each feeding and disinfect them daily to prevent the growth of bacteria. Grapefruit Seed Extract, name brand Citricidal by BioChem Research, is a professional strength, non-toxic and safe disinfectant to use on bird cages, food and water dishes, brooders and feeding instruments.If you are uncomfortable about using an all natural disinfectant, ask your avian vet to recommend a Quaternary Ammonium product.
Abandoned Chicks: Chicks can be active and wiggle away from their parents but sometimes parents will reject a chick and push it to the side of the nestbox. The parents may know that the baby is too weak to survive. The last chick to hatch will be smaller and weaker than the older ones. Larger and stronger babies are noticed first because they are louder and actively begging for food. A chick that is not being fed is a weaker chick and weaker chicks are often rejected by parents. Smaller chicks can also get covered with nesting material and parents can not see them. In some very sad cases, the baby's jaw is literally locked shut so it can not beg for or accept food. This is caused by a condition called Bordatella. If a baby has been abandoned, make a brooder and hand feeding. After a few days of formula, the chick will be stronger and you can try returning it to the nestbox. In most cases the parents will resume feeding the baby once it's a little stronger. Cockatiels breeding their first clutch may abandon the entire clutch. Abandoned babies can be in a brooder and handfed or they can be placed with foster parents, another pair of birds that have been successful at breeding a clutch of chicks.
Feather Plucking Sometimes one or both parents will start pecking at babies or plucking out their feathers. (The chick on the left has been severely plucked by the father.) A very aggressive parent can injure, mutilate or kill a chick by pecking or plucking. The male is usually the offending partner. Some speculate that the male wants to mate with a non-cooperative partner. Male jealousy of the attention that the female is giving to chicks has also been cited as a cause. If chicks are pecked at or plucked, remove the offending parent to a separate cage. You can try giving the offending parent visitation rights when it's feeding time. It he/she is still abusing the chicks, remove that parent permanently. Feather plucking will not stop. It will only get worst and it could lead to chicks imitating the behavior, plucking their siblings. A healthy, well nourished bird should be able to feed and take care of an average size clutch, 2-6 eggs, alone. You may have to give supplemental feedings if the clutch is large or if a single parent starts too look exhausted. If both parents are abusing chicks, chicks should be placed with foster parents or moved to a brooder for hand feeding. Not all birds make good parents, just like not all humans are good parents.
When to Pull for Hand Feeding & Brooders The best time to start hand feeding chicks is when they are 14 days old. Chicks at this age will have developed pinfeathers and their eyes will have just opened (Cockatiel babies open their eyes between 7-10 days.) Older chicks are more difficult to hand feed and they are less trusting of humans. Chicks can be removed from their parents and placed inside of a pre-warmed brooder at night so they wake up with an empty crop. (A brooder is a container with a heating unit for keeping chicks warm.) Maintaining an environment and brooder temperature of 80°-85°F for chicks with pin feathers, 75°-80°F for fully feathered chicks and 68°-75°F for fully weaned chicks will enhance the growth and health of chicks. (Source: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997). Incorrect brooder temperatures will result in slower growth, poor weight gains and slow crop draining. A brooder can be made by using a new, lightweight plastic animal habitat or by using a plastic, Rubbermaid type storage box. Line the bottom of the brooder with a thick layer of white paper towels, cotton cloth diapers or tightly woven cotton dish towels to absorb moisture so the bottom will not be slippery. (Cotton diapers can be purchased at Wal-Mart and Targets.). Change the brooder lining after each feeding. The serious breeder may want to consider purchasing a commercial brooder or a "brooder top" which is placed over a glass aquarium. Both are superior for maintaining accurate heat and humidity levels.
Brooder Humidity, Heat & Light: By putting a small, margarine tub filled with water, covered with a lid that has holes punched, on the bottom of the brooder sufficient humidity should be provided. Chicks do well in an environment with a humidity level of 50-75%. For heat, place a heating pad set on low, covered with a thick bath towel under HALF of the brooder. If chicks become too warm they can move to the other side. Chicks that are too warm will pant and breath heavily, hold wings away from the body, and be restless, moving around instead of sleeping. Expended energy will reduce potential weight gain and increase stress, slowing down crop motility. Chicks that are too cold will shiver, huddle together and expend more of their energy to stay warm so digestion will be slower and weight gain minimal. By keeping a thermometer inside of the brooder at the chick's level, temperature can be monitored and adjusted if needed to maintain the recommended temperatures above. Avoid placing the brooder in an overly bright environment so chicks can sleep. Cover the top of brooder with a bath towel and leave one corner open for air ventilation. (In the wild, cockatiels breed in hollow trees where it is dark) Young chicks should be sleeping most of the day and chicks that sleep better will digest food and grow better. To avoid chilling babies, keep the brooder away from drafts and keep bedding dry by changing after each feeding. Chicks are very susceptible to bacterial infections so brooders should be washed in hot soapy water and disinfected each day. Having 2 brooders makes life easier. Chicks can be transferred to a clean container while you are disinfecting the other to use the next day.
Formula and Consistency: A commercial, hand feeding formula, available at pet shops, will meet all of the nutritional needs of growing chicks. Follow the directions on the package for mixing very carefully because the consistency of mixed formula varies from one brand to another. The consistency of mixed formula will also be thickened as the chicks get older, by reducing the amount of water when mixing. When mixed exactly according to the directions on the package, chicks will receive the correct ratio of solid formula and water. Formula expands when wet and visually guessing at the correct consistency can be deceiving. Don't guess when mixing formula. Formula that is too thick can dehydrate a baby and cause the crop to either not drain at all or drain too slowly. Formula that is too thin will cause stunted growth and malnourishment. Chicks receive their fluids from the water in formula but water also dilutes the amount of solid food a chick is consuming. Older chicks need more solid food than water for optimal growth and weight gain. The consistency of mixed formula for a 14 day old chick should be like watery pea soup or a thin gravy. For older chicks, a thicker formula will resemble very soft pudding. .
Mixing Formula and Temperature:Hand feeding formula should always be mixed in a glass container because plastic containers can become scratched, harboring bacteria. Use bottled water for mixing formula and avoid using tap water or boil tap water for 10 minutes to destroy any harmful bacteria or parasites that may be present. Make a fresh, new batch of formula for each and every feeding of the day. Any unused, leftover formula should NOT be stored in the refrigerator or saved for another feeding. Throw it out because mixed formula quickly becomes contaminated with bacteria. Never heat formula that has already been mixed with water. To mix formula, heat water FIRST in a pot on the stove, in a glass coffee maker, or for smaller batches, in a glass measuring cup on a small hot plate or in a pot of boiling water. Pour the hot water into dry formula and mix well so there are no lumps and so heat is evenly distributed. The temperature for serving formula to baby cockatiels is 104-106°F. By the time you have finished mixing hot water into the dry formula, formula should have cooled down to 104-106°F. Feeding formula that is too hot causes Crop burn, the scalding of a chick's crop and esophagus. Crop burn is 100% preventable. Severe burns can result from one feeding at 115°F, or from repeated exposure to food that is slightly hot, over 110°. Always check temperature with a digital food or candy thermometer after mixing and again right before filling a syringe and feeding. Don't test formula on your wrist.
Feeding chicks formula that is lower than 100°F will cause a chick to chill. Chilling slows down the entire digestive system and food will travel down the crop too slowly causing sour crop and other digestive problems. Chicks will also reject formula that is too cold. (Some breeders have reported slow crop in cockatiels fed formula at temperatures under 104°F). NEVER heat water or formula in a microwave because it can leave hot spots even after stirring that will cause crop burn. Crop burn is excruciatingly painful and it's a medical emergency. When a baby's crop is scalded, the skin will turn red and if the burn is severe, blisters that turn into scabs will form on the skin. The wound will then start oozing liquid, forming a scab and when the scab falls off, there may be an actual hole exposing the crop. Surgery is needed to close the hole. Commercial formulas also contain live, beneficial bacteria Lactobacillus and similar organisms that aid in digestion and inhibit the growth of potentially pathogenic bacteria. Excessive heating of formula may destroy these additives as well.
Formula Additives: Many cockatiel breeders add a few drops of apple cider vinegar OR a few drops of papaya extract (available at health food stores) OR a few drops of Citricidal OR half baby food applesauce to half already mixed formula to the morning feedings to promote crop draining. Phil Disney, the well known Australian aviculturist and Curator of Rainbow Jungle, Australia's largest parrot park and breeding center, states in his book, A Guide to Incubating & Hand raising Parrots, "Apple sauce contains pectin which causes the muscle wall of the crop to "pull in". This tends to force food down the digestive tract a bit quicker. A faster draining crop promotes better weight gain and health.a well known avian veterinarian who has bred many different species of birds herself states in her article. "Don’t add ingredients to the hand-feeding formula. The food manufacturers have done a tremendous amount of research to ensure that their formulas will be balanced and nutritious. When you add applesauce or baby food to the formula, you will change the protein to fat ratio, and that will change the gastro-intestinal transit time of the bird. You should not be changing the hand-feeding formula recipe." It is this author's opinion, at the time of writing this article, that Mr. Digney and Dr. Wissman are both correct and that those who want to be responsible breeders, should consult with their avian vets before hand feeding cockatiels.
Crop Draining and Probiotics: There really is no need for the cockatiel breeder to add additional probiotics like Acidophillus Lactobacillus powder to a commercial, manufactured formula if the formula already contains them, (Although many breeders will add an additional pinch to a few feedings each week anyway). Commercial hand feeding formulas that contain a variety of Probiotics, provide the precise amounts needed for growing chicks. Probiotics may enhance crop motility by promoting the growth of "friendly" bacteria that are a normal part of the digestive system. They may also prevent harmful organisms from developing in the crop and digestive tract until the chick develops a stronger immune system. To further promote digestion, chicks should never be fed when there is food in the crop. The crop should be allowed to empty completely once a day, between the midnight and morning feedings. A healthy crop should empty in about 4 hours. If the crop is emptying very slowly, check the brooder temperature which may be too low. Many breeders have had success with giving chicks 100% baby food applesauce, warmed to 104-106° degrees F, at the next feeding and then gently massaging the crop to break up food from the previous feeding. This may stimulate the crop to drain. If the crop empties and the chick passes 1 dropping, give the chick half baby food applesauce and half formula for the next feeding. Some breeders add papaya extract to the formula for a slow draining crop, instead of baby food applesauce. Either one can help a sluggish crop. If these home remedies fail to work OR if the crop is not draining at all, please take your baby to an avian vet before sour crop or slow gut sets in. The crop may need to be flushed and emptied manually.
Hand Feeding Instruments & Amounts to Feed: Cockatiel chicks can be fed with an eyedropper, a pipette, a 10cc syringe or disposable plastic spoons that have been dipped into boiling water so the tips can be bent, making a little V shaped funnel for easier feedings."A separate syringe (or other feeding instrument) should be used for each chick and syringes should not be filled in advance. Under no circumstance should a syringe used to feed a bird be dipped back into the container of formula for a refill. This will introduce bacteria into the nursery." (Source of Hatching Information: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997) For cockatiel chicks, the volume of formula fed at each feeding should be approximately 10% of the chick's body weight.(1ml of mixed formula weighs 1 gram). To determine serving size, chicks should be weighed on a digital gram scale each morning before the first feeding when the crop is empty. One ml of mixed formula weighs about 1 gram. For each gram of a chick's body weight, feed that chick 1 cc of formula. To calculate the amount of formula, multiply the chick's body weight by 10%. For a chick that weighs 40 grams in the AM, you would multiply 40 grams times 10% or 40 x.01=4ccs of formula per feeding. An overstretched crop, from feeding too much formula, will not drain properly and the chick will need to wear "a crop bra" for support. The maximum capacity of a cockatiel chick's crop is 10-15ccs. Standard feeding charts citing the amounts to feed at a given age or weight are only meant to be guides because each baby is an individual.
Hand Feeding: Always wash your hands with an anti-bacterial soap and hot water and use a hand sanitizer before mixing formula, feeding or handling chicks because chicks are very susceptible to bacterial infections. The chick should be placed on a tightly woven towel, on a firm surface, away from the edge of a table or counter so it does not slip or fall onto the floor. Your hand should be around the chick's body and head, supporting the neck. Chicks should only be fed when in a feeding mode and the neck is pumping up and down. When in a feeding mode, the glottis, which is located at the back of the chick's tongue, is closed. The glottis is the opening to the windpipe (trachea) and the windpipe takes air into the lungs. When the glottis is closed, food can not go down into the windpipe causing the chick to choke to death or aspirate, (breathing in formula to the lungs). Never aim the syringe towards the back of a chick's throat & windpipe.
Food travels down to the crop through the chick's esophagus (food pipe) which is located on the right side of the baby's neck. When the chick is facing you as in this picture, the right and left sides will look reversed. Keeping this in mind, the syringe should be directed towards the right side of a chicks mouth (will look like the left side when facing chick) and over the tongue, pointing towards the chick's right side of the mouth. If the chick is not giving you a feeding response, gently touch the side of the beak with the syringe. Give the chick a tiny taste of formula in the mouth. The chick will usually start bobbing his/her head rapidly up and down for you. Dispense formula without over-filling the mouth and allow the chick time to swallow before feeding more formula. Only dispense formula into the chick's mouth when the neck is actively pumping (bobbing) up and down. Personal Note: Unless you have been taught how to hand feed by your avian vet or another breeder, or you have experience in hand feeding baby birds, you should not hand feed. Allow the parents to feed chicks and you and your family can socialize them as will be described below.
Cleaning After Feeding: Chicks can become very messy after eating and they need to be cleaned so formula does become caked on to feathers when it dries. Wipe excess formula off of beaks, skin and feathers with a clean, sterile gauze pad that is wet with warm water containing a few drops of Citricidal (GSE). Citricidal has anti-bacterial properties. Dry, caked on formula can be removed by working the GSE water in with fingertips. Also take a Q-Tip with water and wipe out the inside of each baby's mouths or give the babies a few drops of warm water inside of their beaks to clean out excess formula and to help prevent bacteria from forming. Hand feeding syringes and other feeding equipment will need to be washed in hot soapy water and disinfected after each feeding. Disinfect all syringes, spoons and formula dishes after each feeding then rinse extremely well. There are a few options for disinfecting: dipping washed utensils into a solution of 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water then rinsing well, soaking in Citricidal, (GSE) a non-toxic, all natural product, or using a quaternary ammonium product. (ask your avian vet to recommend one) Dr. Margaret Wissman and aviculturist Harold Vorn,founder of the Voren Research Institute for Psittacultural Science both suggest using a, baby bottle sterilizer. Feeding instruments can be sterilized with steam instead of using chemicals.
Socializing Babies: Babies should be handled daily and by several people so they can adapt to new people and new situations. Socialization with other chicks and adult cockatiels is also important as well. Chicks that are not handled with revert back to being wild. If you do not plan on handfeeding, you can still socialize the babies by gently handling them at least 4 days a week, 15 minutes per session, starting at the age of 12 days old. According to research by the University of California, babies handled like this will be just as tame and sociable as handfed babies. Wash and warm your hands in hot soapy water then use a hand sanitizer so you do not spread bacteria to the babies. Handle babies will full crops very carefully to prevent regurgitation and aspiration (breathing formula into lungs). Cuddle the baby under you chin and close to you your neck for warmth. Cradle him in the palm of your hand, gently stroking the head and wings while talking softly. Don't keep the babies out too long or they will get cold and over tired.
Weaning & Fledging: At 4 weeks of age, babies that are being handfed will start foraging on the floor of the brooder. You can begin introducing them to moistened millet seeds and thawed, steamed mixed vegetables, corn peas and carrots at this age. They will most likely play with the food at this age, but that's normal. Babies fledge, ( are ready to take their first flight) at 4-5 weeks of age. Parent fed babies will come out of the nest box at this age as well. Babies that are 4-5 weeks old and parent fed are still dependant on their parents for food. They stay with the parents until the parents teach them how to eat weaning foods and they discontinue feeding the babies. Handfed babies can be taken out of the brooder and put in a small cage during the day, at 6-7 weeks of age. The cage should not have a floor grate and the bottom should be covered with white paper towels. Perches should be placed close to floor. Food and water dishes should also be put near the cage floor. Chicks can be put back into the brooder at night for sleeping for a few more weeks. Hand feeding should continue according to the schedule below. Additional weaning foods can be introduced to both parent fed and handfed babies at 5 week.
Weaning: The babies in this photo are 4- 5 weeks of age. At this age they are fully feathered with short tail feathers. You can start providing the babies with moistened weaning pellets and a variety of other foods at this age. Weaning pellets are made just for chick. Other foods to offer include cooked brown rice and pasta, fresh, whole wheat toast, cooked oatmeal, bird bread, well cooked scrambled eggs, cooked sweet potatoes and cooked beans, dark green, leafy vegetables: kale, romaine lettuce, spinach, parsley, freshly grown sprouts, corn, peas, carrots, broccoli, green or red peppers, fresh fruits such as apples, oranges, bananas, pears, and cantaloupe, a small amount of moistened seeds in food dishes on the floor as well as other foods. If your babies are reluctant to eat fresh vegetables, try serving them lightly steamed so they are a little softer. Fruits and vegetables contain a high volume of water, 80-90%. They should be served sparingly with baby birds so chicks do not fill up on low calorie foods when they need more concentrated foods .
Offer weaning foods to both handfed and parent fed babies. Soak all fresh produce in a bowl of water that contains some apple cider vinegar, (2 tablespoons for a soup bowl full of water) for a few minutes or several drops of Grapefruit Seed Extract in the water instead, (Citricidal, following directions on package). Either product will wash off any traces of pesticides. Then rinse the veggies and fruit with clean, cold water. Cut or shred pieces of fresh foods tiny so the babies don't choke or cut into large pieces so babies can nibble little pieces off by themselves. Do not leave fresh food inside of the cage for more than an hour. If babies are reluctant to eat the weaning foods, you can add a small amount of warm, hand feeding formula on top of them and try feeding them moistened pellets by hand.
Weigh the babies daily to make sure they are getting enough nutrition and are not losing weight. Chicks that are in the weaning process still need supplemental hand feedings or parent feedings. If a baby is crying and begging for food, hand feed it. A crying baby is a hungry baby. Babies will start rejecting the formula on their own when they are almost weaned. This is called abundance weaning. Cockatiels that are allowed to wean at their own pace are usually fully weaned by 10 weeks of age. Some babies can take up to 12 weeks. To be fully weaned, a baby must be eating entirely on its own for 2 weeks. Avoid forced weaning by depriving the chicks of food. Chicks that are forced to wean by 7-8 weeks of age will regress and revert back to begging for food, neck pumping while making a static sound. New bird owners will not recognize this a a sign of hunger and a need for food. When your chick starts to reject formula from hand feedings, you will know that the weaning process is almost over. It's normal for chicks that are almost weaned to regurgitate a small amount of food after being hand feed. This means that the crop is shrinking, which is also normal.
Coutesy and references :
http://www.cockatielcottage.net/breeding2.html
Failure to Breed: Female cockatiels are fertile up until 8-10 years of age and males are fertile up until 12-14 years of age. There are always exceptions and it's possible for a very healthy, well nourished bird, with a strong genetic tendency for breeding, to be fertile for even longer. Breeding cockatiels, even within these age ranges, can be a disappointing experience. Birds that are bred in captivity do not always make the best parents. Both breeding and parenting skills are learned and genetically inherited behaviors. Breeding pairs that lack experience may traumatize, eat or abandon eggs and chicks from the first few clutches. Some adult breeding pairs may not produce a clutch of eggs for several months or years. Other pairs may never breed successfully at all because of infertility. Infertility in pet birds can be the result of nutritional, medical, behavioral or environmental problems. Some specific causes of infertility include: malnourishment, obesity, nutritional deficiencies, disease, bacterial or fungal infections, reproductive disorders, hormonal imbalances, birds being too young or too old, improper mating due to inexperienced pairs not making actual physical contact, interruption of mating due to disturbances by a human or another pet near the nesting area, not enough time given for pairs to fully bond with each other, same gender pairs that are mistaken for a true male/female pair, forced pairing instead of allowing birds to choose their own mates, lack of water for bathing, unavailable soft foods which are needed to feed chicks, insufficient exposure to daylight hours and or UVA/UVB lighting, using the wrong type or size of nestbox, nesting material that is unacceptable to a breeding pair, and improper humidity levels or indoor temperatures. (Source: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997)
Selecting Birds for Breeding Choosing a healthy, well nourished pair of adult birds that are not related to each other is vital for successful breeding and healthy chicks. A pre-breeding health check for breeding pairs by an avian vet, which includes blood tests and gram stains, is always advisable to determine if the birds have any sub-clinical infections or nutritional deficiencies. Another factor to consider is the age of breeding pairs. Cockatiels should not be allowed to breed until they are at least 18 months old. Even though they are physically "capable" of breeding as young as 5-6 months of age, young males can be infertile and young females can suffer from health complications like egg binding. When parents are still juveniles themselves, breeding also depletes their own young, growing bodies of the nutrients necessary that they need themselves to grow into healthy adult birds. The babies of young, juvenile parents may be born weaker and less healthy then the offspring of adult birds as we. Breeding cockatiels that are related to each other and with the same bloodline should also be avoided. Birth defects and health problems in the offspring of related birds are common. Some physical abnormalities associated with inbreeding include: Deformed, misaligned or missing beaks or nares, deformed or missing wings, legs or toes, orthopedic problems that affect a bird's ability to perch, climb, walk or fly, malfunctioning organs, infertile offspring and offspring that are more susceptible to disease. Other problems associated with inbreeding include a decreased production of eggs, infertility of eggs and decreased hatching rates of eggs. Only healthy, adult birds that are from different bloodlines should be allowed to breed.
When to Breed Cockatiels: The natural breeding season for cockatiels in the wild is Spring to Early Autumn. This is when breeding conditions are the most favorable, with warmer temperatures, more hours of natural daylight each day and when both food and rainfall are more plentiful. More hours of daylight, more frequent baths or water misting, a healthy diet that includes breeder's pellets as well as soft foods 3 months before breeding season and the presence of a cockatiel nestbox will encourage breeding in captivity. Cockatiels are prolific breeders and they will breeding in captivity all year long, if allowed to do so. However, clutches should be limited to no more than 2 per year, the amount that avian veterinarians consider normal. Although indoor conditions are always favorable for breeding indoors, due to exposure to long hours of artificial lighting, an ample food and water supply and a sense of security, breeding continuously all year long, seriously compromises a bird's health . Every effort should be made limit a pair's breeding to no more than 2 clutches of eggs a year. Your birds need to rest during the remainder of the year to build up strength for the next breeding season. Breeding is physically and psychologically stressful for birds and stress impairs a bird's immune system. Excessive egg laying also depletes a female's body of calcium as well as other nutrients. Depletion of calcium from egg laying can cause seizures, egg binding as well as sudden death. Continuous breeding all year long also puts a tremendous amount of physical strain on a female bird's reproductive organs. A prolapsed cloaca and uterus (cloaca or uterus protrudes out from the vent) are usually associated with chronic egg laying and they both requires surgery to correct. It's important that you prevent your birds from over breeding. Only healthy, adult cockatiels that are well rested and well nourished, should be paired for breeding.
The Nestbox and Nesting Materials: Each breeding pair should have their own nestbox. with 1 pair of birds per cage. The size of a cockatiel nestbox is, 9"-11"-12" with a 2 and 1/4 inch opening.Line the nestbox with a several layers of soft but slightly textured white paper towels to absorb moisture and to prevent chicks from developing splayed legs or other leg deformities from a wet, slippery bottom. Make a small dent or well in the center. This is called a nest bowl and it will help to prevent the eggs from rolling around. Some birds will toss out the paper towels. Cloth baby diapers or unfrayed woven cotton towels can be used as a nesting substrate as well. They can also be tossed into the washing machine to sanitize as needed. Wrong types of nesting materials include: any type of liter, corncob bedding, or walnut shells. These are all organic materials that will promote the growth of bacteria and mold spores when wet. The use of pine, cedar, aspen or other wood chips/shavings should also be avoided. Cedar is toxic and the fumes and dust from other wood type bedding materials contain fumes and dust that will irritate a bird's eyes and respiratory system. Another negative aspect of all of these unsuitable nesting materials is that they are not digestible and they cause digestive impactions if swallowed. (Source of Hatching Information: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997) Some impactions can be treated by avian vets with digestive enzymes and antibiotics. Other impactions require surgical removal or they can cause death. The lutino chick in the upper left has a digestive impaction from ingesting aspen shavings. Other poor choices for nesting materials include shredded newspaper or terry cloth towels with loops. Toenails can get caught in strips of paper and towel threads, cutting off the circulation in a bird's leg. This can cause permanent neurological damage to toes, foot or leg and in some case, amputation of the limb may be necessary.
Egg Laying and Nesting: Eggs are laid about 7-10 days after a pair mates successfully. The process of egg laying, from ovary to fertilization, development of shell to actual egg laying is approximately 2-3 days. You can expect your female to lay 1 egg about every 48 hours. until a clutch of 2-8 eggs is laid. Prior to egg laying and during the egg laying process, the female will have very large and odorous droppings, which is normal. Fecal matter will be retained in the cloaca until they are eliminated in the morning. (Failure to pass droppings could mean egg binding. Information and symptoms of egg binding can be found on a link at the bottom of this page). Sometimes the parents will wait until 2 or 3 eggs are present before nesting on eggs. The purpose is so that most of the eggs will hatch around the same time. Eggs do not start to incubate until they are nested on and get warm and eggs can stay viable for up to 7 days before nesting is need. If parents are reluctant to go inside of the nestbox, hang a strip of millet seed near the entrance hole.
Eggs laid on the bottom of the cage floor may still hatch although literature suggests that they rarely do. If your bird lays eggs on the cage floor, put up a nestbox and place the eggs inside. Hanging a strip of millet seed spray near the entrance hole may encourage them to enter the nestbox. If your birds will not accept a nestbox, you can try using an alternate type of nest on the bottom of the cage. Alternate, non-conventional nests include a shallow glass Pyrex baking dish, a glass, deep dish pie plate, a shallow glass soup bowl or a basket with several layers of white paper towels and placed on the cage floor. Some birds may be more willing to accept an alternate nesting site once eggs have already been laid on the floor. If they won't accept it, you can try putting the eggs on a folded cloth diaper, a folded dishtowel or a washcloth that does not have loops for toenails to get caught. (Always wash your hands with hot soapy water and use a hand sanitizer before handling eggs.) Sometime breeding birds will reject an egg by pushing it to the side of the nest, abandoning it. The parents may be able to sense a lack of movement inside of a defective egg. Because abandoned eggs become chilled quickly, the embryos will die if they are not moved back to near the parents, put inside of an incubator or placed with foster parents, (another pair of birds that have already been successful at breeding a clutch of birds.) .
Aggressiveness while Breeding: When a pair of compatible, bonded cockatiels are breeding, they will either nest on eggs together or they will take turns nesting on eggs. Breeding pairs should not be separated unless one of the birds is in danger of being in jured by a very aggressive mate. A very aggressive bird can injure, mutilate or kill a mate. The male is usually the offending partner and his actions will include pecking at the female's feet, eyes, nares or chasing her around the cage, blocking her entrance to the nestbox or not allowing her access to food or water dishes. Some speculate that the male wants to mate with a non-cooperative partner. Male jealousy of the attention that the female is giving to eggs/chicks has also been cited as a cause. Mild squabbling between partners during the breeding process is normal. The female may get upset if the male wants to enter the nestbox or the male may not allow the female to nest on eggs once they are laid. This usually subsides as the breeding process progresses. After eggs hatch, females may take on a more passive role, while the male takes on a more dominant role feeding the chicks. It's normal for the parents to be aggressive towards you when breeding. They are doing their job and protecting their eggs and babies.
Humidity, Egg Turning and Broken Eggs Provide your birds with a shallow dish of water to bathe in each day. When parents wet the feathers on their lower body feathers, eggs are kept moist during the nesting phase. This will help to maintain the humidity level that embryos need to develop properly. Your birds will also turn the eggs once every hour during the day and some pairs will also turn them during the night. Turning eggs helps to maintain a uniform temperature on both the upper and lower side of the egg. Turning also prevents the baby from sticking to the shell membrane and it helps organs to develop properly. If you notice eggs that with a hairline crack, you can repair them by applying a thin coat of white, non-toxic, water soluble glue such as Elmer's Glue. A Larger crack can be repaired by placing a tiny piece of gauze or a single layer of unscented tissue over it and then applying several coats of glue. Wait 30 minutes between applications. The area repaired has to be minimal or oxygen exchange through pores in the egg may be impaired. Repaired eggs should also be watched closely during hatching because the chick may have trouble breaking through a large, thick seal and may need help during hatching. Since the glue is water soluble, applying sterile water with a small paintbrush to moisten the repaired area will allow you to carefully remove the tissue during hatching. Always wash your hands with soap and hot water and use a hand sanitizer before handling eggs. Eggs are porous and harmful bacteria on your hands will get inside of the egg, harming the chick.
Candling and Fertile Eggs: By candling eggs, (looking at them under a very bright light) you will be able to see if the eggs are fertile. Candle the eggs on day 5 of actual nesting. Eggs will become more difficult to candle as the growing chick fills the shell. For the professional breeder, Purchase a candling light that you can hold directly over the eggs in the nestbox without having to touch or move the egg. Use extreme care when handling the eggs being careful not to roll, shake, tilt or spin. Always wash your hands with hot soapy water and use a hand sanitizer before touching the eggs and don't hold them for too long. Eggs are porous and any harmful bacteria on your hands can enter the egg, harming the growing chick. Eggs that are held too long will overheat and the chick will be destroyed.
Fertile eggs will have a red spider like appearance. There will be a dark spot in the center and you will see red veins developing. There will also be a white space inside of the wider part the egg. This is called the air cell and the air cell will get larger as the chick grows. Eggs that have not been fertile will not have red blood vessels. They will appear clear with a yellow glow from the yolk. Infertile eggs should not be removed from the nestbox unless they are broken or cracked. These additional eggs will help to maintain warmth for fertile eggs and they will protect fertile eggs from rolling around. Mark each fertile egg with a non-toxic, soft, felt tipped marker so you will know when to expect hatching. A few days before the expected hatch date, eggs should be candled one more time, to monitor for live chicks and to see if the chick has re-positioning into the air cell. Put a small dot with a felt tip marker on top of the egg so you will know which side to put back down into the nestbox after candling. Be extremely careful to keep the egg level, making sure that that the egg does not tilt, roll over, turn to the side or turn around. If the chick is already in the process of hatching, it can lose orientation. If an egg was fertile and the embryo died, you will see a patchy or solid ring of blood around the circumference of the egg. A "blood ring" will lack the tiny, spreading blood vessels that are visible in a living embryo because those tiny veins have died and clotted. (A link to an article on the bottom of this page, "Eggs Not Hatching", will explain some of the main causes of DIS (Dead in Shell) babies. Please take the time to read it.)
Hatching:Cockatiel eggs hatch 18-21 days after nesting begins. A few days before hatching, the air cell (located at the wider side of the egg) will become larger and start to tilt. The baby will then reposition itself and move into the air cell. This is called "drawdown". Once inside of the air cell, the baby starts pneumonic breathing with its lungs. As the chick becomes more active during the hatching process, oxygen inside of the air cell will be depleted and carbon dioxide levels will increase, causing the baby's abdominal and neck muscles to contract. The contractions of the neck and abdomen will force the chick's back up against the shell, causing the feet to push against the opposite side of the shell. Muscle contractions of the neck will cause the "egg tooth", located inside of the beak, to start puncturing and breaking away at the inner shell. The first visible external sign of hatching will be an external pip mark. An external pip mark is a small bump or dent with tiny cracks on the outside of the shell. The pip mark will become larger, encircling the entire shell in one direction, as the baby chips away at the shell and hatching progresses. Once the shell is punctured and the baby starts to breath room air you may be able to hear vocalization.
You can expect cockatiel eggs to hatch 24-36 hours after the first appearance of the external pip mark. NOTE: Signs of hatching problems include: no external pip mark 36 hours after the air cell tilts; no change in appearance at the original pip mark site after 48 hours; if a baby pips 1/4 to 1/2 way around the egg and then stops for an extended period of time; if the baby reverses directions to return to the initial pip site and if vocalization ceases. Contact your avian vet if any of these situations occur. The baby may need assistance in hatching. (Source of Hatching Information: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997)
Visually Inspect Each Newly Hatched Chick to evaluate its physical condition. Normal, healthy chicks will have yellowish-pink skin with a supple, warm feel. Dehydrated nestlings will be thin and wrinkled, with dry skin that looks red or muddy and feels sticky to the touch. Chicks with white, cool skin are either hypothermic, (abnormally cold) or moribund (close to death). Right after hatching the parents will remove pieces of egg shell and other materials from the chicks. When they are finished, the baby will look clean and fluffy. Empty egg shells from the nestbox should be removed as soon as possible after hatching to prevent bacteria from growing. Parents may wait 6-8 hours until the baby is dry before giving them their first feeding. Nutrition is already being provided by the yolk sac which was absorbed prior to hatching. Dehydration is the most serious complication right after hatching. If the baby is dehydrated, administer 1 drop of warm Pedialyte and do not repeat unless you can see the fluid pass through chick's crop and the chick has passed 1 dropping. Some breeders will routinely give all babies 1 drop of warm Pedialyte or sterile water (boiled 10 minutes then cooled) when they first hatch to help prevent dehydration. If a normal dropping is passed, one drop is administered every hour. Hand feeding newly hatched chicks with formula during this period should be avoided because the crop is so tiny. As the baby starts to grow and begins to consume more food, the crop will stretch out gradually by itself.
Note Females that are laying eggs will lose calcium. Provide plenty of additional calcium in her diet from a cuttlebone, fresh dark green vegetables such as kale, spinach, endive, chard, parsley, beet greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, watercress, broccoli leaves and stalks. Low blood calcium will cause soft shelled eggs and egg binding as well as seizures or sudden death.Female cockatiels are fertile until 8-10 years of ages and male cockatiels are fertile until 12-14 years of age. However, it is very possible for a healthy, well nourished bird to be fertile for even more years. Most healthy, well nourished females are capable of laying eggs their entire lives. However, eggs laid by geriatric birds are usually "duds" and can not be fertilized
Dirty Nestboxes: One of the main causes of chick mortality is poor hygiene on the part of the breeder. Baby birds are born with virtually no working immune system so they are more susceptible to getting bacterial or fungal infections from your hands, ordinary household objects and an environment that has been contaminated with disease causing organisms. Harmful bacteria and mold can grow and thrive in a nestbox filled with droppings and food. The nestbox should be cleaned each day after the babies are born. A good time to do this is when both parents come out to eat. By sliding a piece of cardboard through the cage bars and blocking off the entrance, parents can be prevented from re-entering the nestbox while you work. Put the babies in a small bowl that has been lined with white, unscented tissue paper or a clean, tightly woven cotton towel. Work quickly so the babies do not get chilled. Scrape the sides of the nestbox, remove soiled nesting material, replace with clean nesting material then put the babies back inside. Remove the cardboard so the parents can re-enter the nestbox. Always be careful not to startle or frighten the parents. If they panic, they may trample on the babies and injure them.
How Parents Feed Chicks Parents will regurgitate the food that they eat to feed to their babies and both parents take turns feeding the chicks. The parents need excellent nutrition and a constant supply of food to feed chicks so chicks can grow strong and healthy. Parents will also be extremely hungry when feeding babies. If you're not providing enough food for them, they will frantically pace back and forth. Provide at least 2 food dishes filled with pellets and seeds at all times and serve a soft, fresh food diet to parents throughout the day. Most breeding pairs are not finicky about food and they will eagerly consume a soft food diet when one is offered. Fresh foods can be served in the morning and evening but most conscientious breeders provide fresh foods throughout the day and whenever they see the parents feeding babies.
Suggested Soft Foods: Moistened pellets, cooked oatmeal, cooked brown rice, cooked pasta, baked mashed sweet potatoes, whole wheat toast, fresh corn, peas, carrots, broccoli, dark green leafy vegetables, apples, bananas, pears and well cooked, mashed hard boiled egg yolk can all be served to breeding parents. You can also offer parents mixed hand feeding formula with their fresh foods as well. Fresh foods should be served in very small pieces or they can be mashed or put them through a food processor or blender. You can also lightly steam vegetables if your birds prefer them this way. Mashed and steamed vegetables are sometimes more acceptable to a breeding pair reluctant to eat fresh foods. Take fresh food out after 1-2 hours depending on the indoor temperature.( Food spoils faster in hot weather). Take out EGGS after 30 minutes. Eggs spoil much faster than other foods. Change your bird's drinking water a few times a day so it is always fresh and clean. Wash food and water dishes in hot soapy water after each feeding and disinfect them daily to prevent the growth of bacteria. Grapefruit Seed Extract, name brand Citricidal by BioChem Research, is a professional strength, non-toxic and safe disinfectant to use on bird cages, food and water dishes, brooders and feeding instruments.If you are uncomfortable about using an all natural disinfectant, ask your avian vet to recommend a Quaternary Ammonium product.
Abandoned Chicks: Chicks can be active and wiggle away from their parents but sometimes parents will reject a chick and push it to the side of the nestbox. The parents may know that the baby is too weak to survive. The last chick to hatch will be smaller and weaker than the older ones. Larger and stronger babies are noticed first because they are louder and actively begging for food. A chick that is not being fed is a weaker chick and weaker chicks are often rejected by parents. Smaller chicks can also get covered with nesting material and parents can not see them. In some very sad cases, the baby's jaw is literally locked shut so it can not beg for or accept food. This is caused by a condition called Bordatella. If a baby has been abandoned, make a brooder and hand feeding. After a few days of formula, the chick will be stronger and you can try returning it to the nestbox. In most cases the parents will resume feeding the baby once it's a little stronger. Cockatiels breeding their first clutch may abandon the entire clutch. Abandoned babies can be in a brooder and handfed or they can be placed with foster parents, another pair of birds that have been successful at breeding a clutch of chicks.
Feather Plucking Sometimes one or both parents will start pecking at babies or plucking out their feathers. (The chick on the left has been severely plucked by the father.) A very aggressive parent can injure, mutilate or kill a chick by pecking or plucking. The male is usually the offending partner. Some speculate that the male wants to mate with a non-cooperative partner. Male jealousy of the attention that the female is giving to chicks has also been cited as a cause. If chicks are pecked at or plucked, remove the offending parent to a separate cage. You can try giving the offending parent visitation rights when it's feeding time. It he/she is still abusing the chicks, remove that parent permanently. Feather plucking will not stop. It will only get worst and it could lead to chicks imitating the behavior, plucking their siblings. A healthy, well nourished bird should be able to feed and take care of an average size clutch, 2-6 eggs, alone. You may have to give supplemental feedings if the clutch is large or if a single parent starts too look exhausted. If both parents are abusing chicks, chicks should be placed with foster parents or moved to a brooder for hand feeding. Not all birds make good parents, just like not all humans are good parents.
When to Pull for Hand Feeding & Brooders The best time to start hand feeding chicks is when they are 14 days old. Chicks at this age will have developed pinfeathers and their eyes will have just opened (Cockatiel babies open their eyes between 7-10 days.) Older chicks are more difficult to hand feed and they are less trusting of humans. Chicks can be removed from their parents and placed inside of a pre-warmed brooder at night so they wake up with an empty crop. (A brooder is a container with a heating unit for keeping chicks warm.) Maintaining an environment and brooder temperature of 80°-85°F for chicks with pin feathers, 75°-80°F for fully feathered chicks and 68°-75°F for fully weaned chicks will enhance the growth and health of chicks. (Source: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997). Incorrect brooder temperatures will result in slower growth, poor weight gains and slow crop draining. A brooder can be made by using a new, lightweight plastic animal habitat or by using a plastic, Rubbermaid type storage box. Line the bottom of the brooder with a thick layer of white paper towels, cotton cloth diapers or tightly woven cotton dish towels to absorb moisture so the bottom will not be slippery. (Cotton diapers can be purchased at Wal-Mart and Targets.). Change the brooder lining after each feeding. The serious breeder may want to consider purchasing a commercial brooder or a "brooder top" which is placed over a glass aquarium. Both are superior for maintaining accurate heat and humidity levels.
Brooder Humidity, Heat & Light: By putting a small, margarine tub filled with water, covered with a lid that has holes punched, on the bottom of the brooder sufficient humidity should be provided. Chicks do well in an environment with a humidity level of 50-75%. For heat, place a heating pad set on low, covered with a thick bath towel under HALF of the brooder. If chicks become too warm they can move to the other side. Chicks that are too warm will pant and breath heavily, hold wings away from the body, and be restless, moving around instead of sleeping. Expended energy will reduce potential weight gain and increase stress, slowing down crop motility. Chicks that are too cold will shiver, huddle together and expend more of their energy to stay warm so digestion will be slower and weight gain minimal. By keeping a thermometer inside of the brooder at the chick's level, temperature can be monitored and adjusted if needed to maintain the recommended temperatures above. Avoid placing the brooder in an overly bright environment so chicks can sleep. Cover the top of brooder with a bath towel and leave one corner open for air ventilation. (In the wild, cockatiels breed in hollow trees where it is dark) Young chicks should be sleeping most of the day and chicks that sleep better will digest food and grow better. To avoid chilling babies, keep the brooder away from drafts and keep bedding dry by changing after each feeding. Chicks are very susceptible to bacterial infections so brooders should be washed in hot soapy water and disinfected each day. Having 2 brooders makes life easier. Chicks can be transferred to a clean container while you are disinfecting the other to use the next day.
Formula and Consistency: A commercial, hand feeding formula, available at pet shops, will meet all of the nutritional needs of growing chicks. Follow the directions on the package for mixing very carefully because the consistency of mixed formula varies from one brand to another. The consistency of mixed formula will also be thickened as the chicks get older, by reducing the amount of water when mixing. When mixed exactly according to the directions on the package, chicks will receive the correct ratio of solid formula and water. Formula expands when wet and visually guessing at the correct consistency can be deceiving. Don't guess when mixing formula. Formula that is too thick can dehydrate a baby and cause the crop to either not drain at all or drain too slowly. Formula that is too thin will cause stunted growth and malnourishment. Chicks receive their fluids from the water in formula but water also dilutes the amount of solid food a chick is consuming. Older chicks need more solid food than water for optimal growth and weight gain. The consistency of mixed formula for a 14 day old chick should be like watery pea soup or a thin gravy. For older chicks, a thicker formula will resemble very soft pudding. .
Mixing Formula and Temperature:Hand feeding formula should always be mixed in a glass container because plastic containers can become scratched, harboring bacteria. Use bottled water for mixing formula and avoid using tap water or boil tap water for 10 minutes to destroy any harmful bacteria or parasites that may be present. Make a fresh, new batch of formula for each and every feeding of the day. Any unused, leftover formula should NOT be stored in the refrigerator or saved for another feeding. Throw it out because mixed formula quickly becomes contaminated with bacteria. Never heat formula that has already been mixed with water. To mix formula, heat water FIRST in a pot on the stove, in a glass coffee maker, or for smaller batches, in a glass measuring cup on a small hot plate or in a pot of boiling water. Pour the hot water into dry formula and mix well so there are no lumps and so heat is evenly distributed. The temperature for serving formula to baby cockatiels is 104-106°F. By the time you have finished mixing hot water into the dry formula, formula should have cooled down to 104-106°F. Feeding formula that is too hot causes Crop burn, the scalding of a chick's crop and esophagus. Crop burn is 100% preventable. Severe burns can result from one feeding at 115°F, or from repeated exposure to food that is slightly hot, over 110°. Always check temperature with a digital food or candy thermometer after mixing and again right before filling a syringe and feeding. Don't test formula on your wrist.
Feeding chicks formula that is lower than 100°F will cause a chick to chill. Chilling slows down the entire digestive system and food will travel down the crop too slowly causing sour crop and other digestive problems. Chicks will also reject formula that is too cold. (Some breeders have reported slow crop in cockatiels fed formula at temperatures under 104°F). NEVER heat water or formula in a microwave because it can leave hot spots even after stirring that will cause crop burn. Crop burn is excruciatingly painful and it's a medical emergency. When a baby's crop is scalded, the skin will turn red and if the burn is severe, blisters that turn into scabs will form on the skin. The wound will then start oozing liquid, forming a scab and when the scab falls off, there may be an actual hole exposing the crop. Surgery is needed to close the hole. Commercial formulas also contain live, beneficial bacteria Lactobacillus and similar organisms that aid in digestion and inhibit the growth of potentially pathogenic bacteria. Excessive heating of formula may destroy these additives as well.
Formula Additives: Many cockatiel breeders add a few drops of apple cider vinegar OR a few drops of papaya extract (available at health food stores) OR a few drops of Citricidal OR half baby food applesauce to half already mixed formula to the morning feedings to promote crop draining. Phil Disney, the well known Australian aviculturist and Curator of Rainbow Jungle, Australia's largest parrot park and breeding center, states in his book, A Guide to Incubating & Hand raising Parrots, "Apple sauce contains pectin which causes the muscle wall of the crop to "pull in". This tends to force food down the digestive tract a bit quicker. A faster draining crop promotes better weight gain and health.a well known avian veterinarian who has bred many different species of birds herself states in her article. "Don’t add ingredients to the hand-feeding formula. The food manufacturers have done a tremendous amount of research to ensure that their formulas will be balanced and nutritious. When you add applesauce or baby food to the formula, you will change the protein to fat ratio, and that will change the gastro-intestinal transit time of the bird. You should not be changing the hand-feeding formula recipe." It is this author's opinion, at the time of writing this article, that Mr. Digney and Dr. Wissman are both correct and that those who want to be responsible breeders, should consult with their avian vets before hand feeding cockatiels.
Crop Draining and Probiotics: There really is no need for the cockatiel breeder to add additional probiotics like Acidophillus Lactobacillus powder to a commercial, manufactured formula if the formula already contains them, (Although many breeders will add an additional pinch to a few feedings each week anyway). Commercial hand feeding formulas that contain a variety of Probiotics, provide the precise amounts needed for growing chicks. Probiotics may enhance crop motility by promoting the growth of "friendly" bacteria that are a normal part of the digestive system. They may also prevent harmful organisms from developing in the crop and digestive tract until the chick develops a stronger immune system. To further promote digestion, chicks should never be fed when there is food in the crop. The crop should be allowed to empty completely once a day, between the midnight and morning feedings. A healthy crop should empty in about 4 hours. If the crop is emptying very slowly, check the brooder temperature which may be too low. Many breeders have had success with giving chicks 100% baby food applesauce, warmed to 104-106° degrees F, at the next feeding and then gently massaging the crop to break up food from the previous feeding. This may stimulate the crop to drain. If the crop empties and the chick passes 1 dropping, give the chick half baby food applesauce and half formula for the next feeding. Some breeders add papaya extract to the formula for a slow draining crop, instead of baby food applesauce. Either one can help a sluggish crop. If these home remedies fail to work OR if the crop is not draining at all, please take your baby to an avian vet before sour crop or slow gut sets in. The crop may need to be flushed and emptied manually.
Hand Feeding Instruments & Amounts to Feed: Cockatiel chicks can be fed with an eyedropper, a pipette, a 10cc syringe or disposable plastic spoons that have been dipped into boiling water so the tips can be bent, making a little V shaped funnel for easier feedings."A separate syringe (or other feeding instrument) should be used for each chick and syringes should not be filled in advance. Under no circumstance should a syringe used to feed a bird be dipped back into the container of formula for a refill. This will introduce bacteria into the nursery." (Source of Hatching Information: Avian Medicine, Principles and Practices by Dr. Branson Ritchie, Dr. Greg Harrison and Linda Harrison, 1997) For cockatiel chicks, the volume of formula fed at each feeding should be approximately 10% of the chick's body weight.(1ml of mixed formula weighs 1 gram). To determine serving size, chicks should be weighed on a digital gram scale each morning before the first feeding when the crop is empty. One ml of mixed formula weighs about 1 gram. For each gram of a chick's body weight, feed that chick 1 cc of formula. To calculate the amount of formula, multiply the chick's body weight by 10%. For a chick that weighs 40 grams in the AM, you would multiply 40 grams times 10% or 40 x.01=4ccs of formula per feeding. An overstretched crop, from feeding too much formula, will not drain properly and the chick will need to wear "a crop bra" for support. The maximum capacity of a cockatiel chick's crop is 10-15ccs. Standard feeding charts citing the amounts to feed at a given age or weight are only meant to be guides because each baby is an individual.
Hand Feeding: Always wash your hands with an anti-bacterial soap and hot water and use a hand sanitizer before mixing formula, feeding or handling chicks because chicks are very susceptible to bacterial infections. The chick should be placed on a tightly woven towel, on a firm surface, away from the edge of a table or counter so it does not slip or fall onto the floor. Your hand should be around the chick's body and head, supporting the neck. Chicks should only be fed when in a feeding mode and the neck is pumping up and down. When in a feeding mode, the glottis, which is located at the back of the chick's tongue, is closed. The glottis is the opening to the windpipe (trachea) and the windpipe takes air into the lungs. When the glottis is closed, food can not go down into the windpipe causing the chick to choke to death or aspirate, (breathing in formula to the lungs). Never aim the syringe towards the back of a chick's throat & windpipe.
Food travels down to the crop through the chick's esophagus (food pipe) which is located on the right side of the baby's neck. When the chick is facing you as in this picture, the right and left sides will look reversed. Keeping this in mind, the syringe should be directed towards the right side of a chicks mouth (will look like the left side when facing chick) and over the tongue, pointing towards the chick's right side of the mouth. If the chick is not giving you a feeding response, gently touch the side of the beak with the syringe. Give the chick a tiny taste of formula in the mouth. The chick will usually start bobbing his/her head rapidly up and down for you. Dispense formula without over-filling the mouth and allow the chick time to swallow before feeding more formula. Only dispense formula into the chick's mouth when the neck is actively pumping (bobbing) up and down. Personal Note: Unless you have been taught how to hand feed by your avian vet or another breeder, or you have experience in hand feeding baby birds, you should not hand feed. Allow the parents to feed chicks and you and your family can socialize them as will be described below.
Cleaning After Feeding: Chicks can become very messy after eating and they need to be cleaned so formula does become caked on to feathers when it dries. Wipe excess formula off of beaks, skin and feathers with a clean, sterile gauze pad that is wet with warm water containing a few drops of Citricidal (GSE). Citricidal has anti-bacterial properties. Dry, caked on formula can be removed by working the GSE water in with fingertips. Also take a Q-Tip with water and wipe out the inside of each baby's mouths or give the babies a few drops of warm water inside of their beaks to clean out excess formula and to help prevent bacteria from forming. Hand feeding syringes and other feeding equipment will need to be washed in hot soapy water and disinfected after each feeding. Disinfect all syringes, spoons and formula dishes after each feeding then rinse extremely well. There are a few options for disinfecting: dipping washed utensils into a solution of 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water then rinsing well, soaking in Citricidal, (GSE) a non-toxic, all natural product, or using a quaternary ammonium product. (ask your avian vet to recommend one) Dr. Margaret Wissman and aviculturist Harold Vorn,founder of the Voren Research Institute for Psittacultural Science both suggest using a, baby bottle sterilizer. Feeding instruments can be sterilized with steam instead of using chemicals.
Socializing Babies: Babies should be handled daily and by several people so they can adapt to new people and new situations. Socialization with other chicks and adult cockatiels is also important as well. Chicks that are not handled with revert back to being wild. If you do not plan on handfeeding, you can still socialize the babies by gently handling them at least 4 days a week, 15 minutes per session, starting at the age of 12 days old. According to research by the University of California, babies handled like this will be just as tame and sociable as handfed babies. Wash and warm your hands in hot soapy water then use a hand sanitizer so you do not spread bacteria to the babies. Handle babies will full crops very carefully to prevent regurgitation and aspiration (breathing formula into lungs). Cuddle the baby under you chin and close to you your neck for warmth. Cradle him in the palm of your hand, gently stroking the head and wings while talking softly. Don't keep the babies out too long or they will get cold and over tired.
Weaning & Fledging: At 4 weeks of age, babies that are being handfed will start foraging on the floor of the brooder. You can begin introducing them to moistened millet seeds and thawed, steamed mixed vegetables, corn peas and carrots at this age. They will most likely play with the food at this age, but that's normal. Babies fledge, ( are ready to take their first flight) at 4-5 weeks of age. Parent fed babies will come out of the nest box at this age as well. Babies that are 4-5 weeks old and parent fed are still dependant on their parents for food. They stay with the parents until the parents teach them how to eat weaning foods and they discontinue feeding the babies. Handfed babies can be taken out of the brooder and put in a small cage during the day, at 6-7 weeks of age. The cage should not have a floor grate and the bottom should be covered with white paper towels. Perches should be placed close to floor. Food and water dishes should also be put near the cage floor. Chicks can be put back into the brooder at night for sleeping for a few more weeks. Hand feeding should continue according to the schedule below. Additional weaning foods can be introduced to both parent fed and handfed babies at 5 week.
Weaning: The babies in this photo are 4- 5 weeks of age. At this age they are fully feathered with short tail feathers. You can start providing the babies with moistened weaning pellets and a variety of other foods at this age. Weaning pellets are made just for chick. Other foods to offer include cooked brown rice and pasta, fresh, whole wheat toast, cooked oatmeal, bird bread, well cooked scrambled eggs, cooked sweet potatoes and cooked beans, dark green, leafy vegetables: kale, romaine lettuce, spinach, parsley, freshly grown sprouts, corn, peas, carrots, broccoli, green or red peppers, fresh fruits such as apples, oranges, bananas, pears, and cantaloupe, a small amount of moistened seeds in food dishes on the floor as well as other foods. If your babies are reluctant to eat fresh vegetables, try serving them lightly steamed so they are a little softer. Fruits and vegetables contain a high volume of water, 80-90%. They should be served sparingly with baby birds so chicks do not fill up on low calorie foods when they need more concentrated foods .
Offer weaning foods to both handfed and parent fed babies. Soak all fresh produce in a bowl of water that contains some apple cider vinegar, (2 tablespoons for a soup bowl full of water) for a few minutes or several drops of Grapefruit Seed Extract in the water instead, (Citricidal, following directions on package). Either product will wash off any traces of pesticides. Then rinse the veggies and fruit with clean, cold water. Cut or shred pieces of fresh foods tiny so the babies don't choke or cut into large pieces so babies can nibble little pieces off by themselves. Do not leave fresh food inside of the cage for more than an hour. If babies are reluctant to eat the weaning foods, you can add a small amount of warm, hand feeding formula on top of them and try feeding them moistened pellets by hand.
Weigh the babies daily to make sure they are getting enough nutrition and are not losing weight. Chicks that are in the weaning process still need supplemental hand feedings or parent feedings. If a baby is crying and begging for food, hand feed it. A crying baby is a hungry baby. Babies will start rejecting the formula on their own when they are almost weaned. This is called abundance weaning. Cockatiels that are allowed to wean at their own pace are usually fully weaned by 10 weeks of age. Some babies can take up to 12 weeks. To be fully weaned, a baby must be eating entirely on its own for 2 weeks. Avoid forced weaning by depriving the chicks of food. Chicks that are forced to wean by 7-8 weeks of age will regress and revert back to begging for food, neck pumping while making a static sound. New bird owners will not recognize this a a sign of hunger and a need for food. When your chick starts to reject formula from hand feedings, you will know that the weaning process is almost over. It's normal for chicks that are almost weaned to regurgitate a small amount of food after being hand feed. This means that the crop is shrinking, which is also normal.
Coutesy and references :
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