Long-tail Finch
Breed: Long-tail finch
Temperament: inquisitive and sociable
Cost: $80 - $120
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Maintenance: low
Recommended for: beginner to experienced bird enthusiasts
Breed: Long-tail finch
Temperament: inquisitive and sociable
Cost: $80 - $120
Lifespan: 5-8 years
Maintenance: low
Recommended for: beginner to experienced bird enthusiasts
Common Names
Long-tailed Grassfinch, Heck's shaft-tail, Black Heart finch
Description
Shaft-tails can be difficult to sex. Males and females are nearly identical in appearance. When placed side-by-side, the male's throat bib will appear a bit wider and triangular than the female's. (Photo - the female is on the left, male on the right) The male may also have a cleaner gray on the head and the flank stripe is said to be thicker as well. The male also has a rather high-pitched song that accompanies a hopping sort of dance. The head bobbing that is seen in both sexes is more often seen performed by the male.
Diet
A standard finch mix will be fine with Shaft-tail finches. They eagerly take egg food (Roy's egg food), greens and soaked millet. Grit and calcium in the form of crushed egg and oyster shells and cuttlebone should always be available to them.
Live food (small mealworms, termites, ant pupae), millet, green food, egg food.
Long-tailed Grassfinch, Heck's shaft-tail, Black Heart finch
Description
Shaft-tails can be difficult to sex. Males and females are nearly identical in appearance. When placed side-by-side, the male's throat bib will appear a bit wider and triangular than the female's. (Photo - the female is on the left, male on the right) The male may also have a cleaner gray on the head and the flank stripe is said to be thicker as well. The male also has a rather high-pitched song that accompanies a hopping sort of dance. The head bobbing that is seen in both sexes is more often seen performed by the male.
Diet
A standard finch mix will be fine with Shaft-tail finches. They eagerly take egg food (Roy's egg food), greens and soaked millet. Grit and calcium in the form of crushed egg and oyster shells and cuttlebone should always be available to them.
Live food (small mealworms, termites, ant pupae), millet, green food, egg food.
Life Cycle
Clutch size:4-6 eggs
Incubation date:After the last egg is laid
Hatch date:After 12-14 days of incubation
Fledge date:At 21 days of age
Wean date:Around 6 weeks of age
Begin molt:Within 8 weeks of age
Complete molt:3-4 months of age
Sexual maturity:Although young may become sexually mature around the time they attain adult plumage, they should not be allowed to breed until they are at least 9 months old.
Incubation date:After the last egg is laid
Hatch date:After 12-14 days of incubation
Fledge date:At 21 days of age
Wean date:Around 6 weeks of age
Begin molt:Within 8 weeks of age
Complete molt:3-4 months of age
Sexual maturity:Although young may become sexually mature around the time they attain adult plumage, they should not be allowed to breed until they are at least 9 months old.
Habitat
Of all of the Australian finches certainly one of the most stylish is the Long-tailed grass finch. Also called the Blackheart finch and more commonly just the Long-tail finch, they are an elegant looking bird naturally distributed in northern parts of the Northern Territory, Western Australia and Queensland.
Australian finches are a popular pet amongst bird lovers. The level of care and experience required to maintain finches can depend on the variety, however the Long-tail finch is ideally suited to the beginner.
Sparsely timbered eucalypt woodland, arid savanna grassland bordering watercourses, open Pandanus plains near the coast.
Australian finches are a popular pet amongst bird lovers. The level of care and experience required to maintain finches can depend on the variety, however the Long-tail finch is ideally suited to the beginner.
Sparsely timbered eucalypt woodland, arid savanna grassland bordering watercourses, open Pandanus plains near the coast.
Appearance
Not as 'flashy' as other finches, the Long-tail is an elegant bird with subtle colouration. It is predominantly grey, with a white ear patch and black 'bib' evident on the throat (hence the name 'Blackheart'). The rump and underparts are white with a black flank-mark. A bar across the rump and a black stripe through the eye further provides a very sleek appearance. And with hardly an obvious feather to be seen, the observer's eye could be fooled into thinking the bird is covered in satin.
There are two varieties of Long-tail finch. The Western Australian variety is yellow-billed with red feet, whilst the Northern Territory and Queensland variety is red-billed with redder feet. This form is commonly called the Hecks variety. The Heck's beak colour can range from bright orange to deep red.
There is little difference in appearance between the sexes and usually only the trained eye can tell. The male's throat-patch will usually appear wider than the female's and the male's beak may also be slightly larger, whilst the female's head may be darker.
There are two varieties of Long-tail finch. The Western Australian variety is yellow-billed with red feet, whilst the Northern Territory and Queensland variety is red-billed with redder feet. This form is commonly called the Hecks variety. The Heck's beak colour can range from bright orange to deep red.
There is little difference in appearance between the sexes and usually only the trained eye can tell. The male's throat-patch will usually appear wider than the female's and the male's beak may also be slightly larger, whilst the female's head may be darker.
Habits
When landing on a perch, a Shaft-tail finch will bob its head up and down in a comical manner. Head-bobbing may also be used to greet each other. Clumping and allopreening occur commonly between members of a flock. Shaft-tails live in groups year-round. They love to sun bathe, but shaded areas should always be available to them within their enclosure. They may roost in a nest at night; wild Shaft-tails often build roosting nests outside of the breeding season for this purpose. Shaft-tails drink water by sucking.
Breeding
The breeding period starts around end winter early spring and last to mid summer in December. Prior to winter during April & May they will have a last clutch all depend when the moult takes place. However they will breed any time of year when the conditions are suitable. The bonds formed are very strong and will last life long. Courtship starts off with the male bobbing and bowing on the perch. The feathers at the bib are ruffed to increase the size. The female will follow with the bobbing and bowing and when ready for copulation she will crouch on the perch. We have placed finch nets boxes in the aviary for both roosting and breeding. More than one box per bird should be ample to ensure harmony amongst the birds. The nest is woven in the nest box with Teff grass on the outside of the nest and coconut fibres in the inside. The nest is lined with feathers.
These guys are not the world's most difficult finch to breed and are generally free-breeders once a compatible pair is introduced into your aviary set-up. Nests are often built in Tea-tree attached to the walls of your aviary or free-standing clumps suspended from the ceiling or in any number of 'man-made' nesting receptacles. The good old Budgie-type box is as favoured a nesting site as anything fancier!
In order to prevent these guys from pilfering nesting material from their weaker cousins you must be prepared to supply liberal amounts. Thinner green stems are a favourite for the outer layer in some instance even if the nest is built in a box!! One of the best for this is the leaves of the tussock grass, Poa billardieri, which are also favoured by the Weaver finches and the Pictorella mannikin.
Once the outer shell has been constructed then November (or swamp) grass is thatched into the outer shell to create a very cosy structure. Into this is dragged a copious amount of soft white feathers, cotton wool & lintus (try to go for a natural brand of cotton wool if you are at all worried about entanglements) Emu feathers and/or dried Pampas grass seed heads.
Around 4-8 white eggs are laid and the Longtails are usually doting parents giving short shift to any interloper that dallies near the nest entrance!!
Again plenty of seeding grasses and soaked/sprouted seeds should see the youngsters reared with a minimum of fuss.
As my own birds share the aviary with insectivorous species they always have access to live food in the form of mealworms and maggots. These should prove to be enough for any Longtails to rear young on without adding termites into the mix.
I try and remove the youngsters when their beaks are beginning to turn from black to red or yellow - depending upon the variety of course!! However, if you choose the young can be left with their parents for successive broods but just check that all the youngsters are not trying to cram back into the breeding nest at night. This will usually mean the loss of the hatchlings. Most pairs will lure their young off into another nest to sleep in (or even construct one solely for that purpose) but just be aware that some may try to "re-visit" their childhood nest site - usually to the detriment of the later brood!!
Nor are Long-tails regarded as a difficult species to breed. They've got two seasons; from around January through to May, then again around October to December, when another nest may appear. Either provide nest boxes or, for a more natural effect, provide a supply of natural brush and grasses of varying lengths and coarseness. This allows the birds to build their own elaborate nests. They have quite a large nest, around 18cm with a long 10cm tunnel. So it is preferable to provide long, fine pieces of grass. The long-tail also likes to line its nest with feathers. Use an old onion bag full of white feathers and they can just pick the feathers through the bag.
Clutch sizes range from four to six and incubation is usually 13 to 17 days. Sexual maturity is reached at about six months but it is best to wait until they are nine to 12 months old before breeding.
These guys are not the world's most difficult finch to breed and are generally free-breeders once a compatible pair is introduced into your aviary set-up. Nests are often built in Tea-tree attached to the walls of your aviary or free-standing clumps suspended from the ceiling or in any number of 'man-made' nesting receptacles. The good old Budgie-type box is as favoured a nesting site as anything fancier!
In order to prevent these guys from pilfering nesting material from their weaker cousins you must be prepared to supply liberal amounts. Thinner green stems are a favourite for the outer layer in some instance even if the nest is built in a box!! One of the best for this is the leaves of the tussock grass, Poa billardieri, which are also favoured by the Weaver finches and the Pictorella mannikin.
Once the outer shell has been constructed then November (or swamp) grass is thatched into the outer shell to create a very cosy structure. Into this is dragged a copious amount of soft white feathers, cotton wool & lintus (try to go for a natural brand of cotton wool if you are at all worried about entanglements) Emu feathers and/or dried Pampas grass seed heads.
Around 4-8 white eggs are laid and the Longtails are usually doting parents giving short shift to any interloper that dallies near the nest entrance!!
Again plenty of seeding grasses and soaked/sprouted seeds should see the youngsters reared with a minimum of fuss.
As my own birds share the aviary with insectivorous species they always have access to live food in the form of mealworms and maggots. These should prove to be enough for any Longtails to rear young on without adding termites into the mix.
I try and remove the youngsters when their beaks are beginning to turn from black to red or yellow - depending upon the variety of course!! However, if you choose the young can be left with their parents for successive broods but just check that all the youngsters are not trying to cram back into the breeding nest at night. This will usually mean the loss of the hatchlings. Most pairs will lure their young off into another nest to sleep in (or even construct one solely for that purpose) but just be aware that some may try to "re-visit" their childhood nest site - usually to the detriment of the later brood!!
Nor are Long-tails regarded as a difficult species to breed. They've got two seasons; from around January through to May, then again around October to December, when another nest may appear. Either provide nest boxes or, for a more natural effect, provide a supply of natural brush and grasses of varying lengths and coarseness. This allows the birds to build their own elaborate nests. They have quite a large nest, around 18cm with a long 10cm tunnel. So it is preferable to provide long, fine pieces of grass. The long-tail also likes to line its nest with feathers. Use an old onion bag full of white feathers and they can just pick the feathers through the bag.
Clutch sizes range from four to six and incubation is usually 13 to 17 days. Sexual maturity is reached at about six months but it is best to wait until they are nine to 12 months old before breeding.
Temperament
These little birds have a lovely personality. Unlike many finch varieties, they are very inquisitive and sociable and will always come and inspect any new addition to the aviary. Long-tails also have the unusual habit of bobbing their head up and down quickly, especially after landing and during courtship. Unlike most grass finches, Long-tails don't have any tail movement.
Finches are not typically a bird that can be handled and are better as pets to be watched. One must be careful when mixing varieties, as all breeds do not get along. Although Long-tails are not aggressive, their inquisitive nature can upset other varieties of birds. Finches in general are social birds and do prefer to be kept in a colony setting.
Finches are not typically a bird that can be handled and are better as pets to be watched. One must be careful when mixing varieties, as all breeds do not get along. Although Long-tails are not aggressive, their inquisitive nature can upset other varieties of birds. Finches in general are social birds and do prefer to be kept in a colony setting.
Voice
Like most finches, the Long-tail is not much of a singer and wont provide much in the way of audible entertainment.
Housing
Like most finches, the Long-tail is not really a cage bird. Too active for a small space, an aviary is the preferred method of housing. They are graceful, fast fliers which thrive in either small colonies or mixed flights with other suitable species. The aviary should be planted out, providing some greenery and habitat for the birds to collect nesting material and search for insects on the wing. And here's a handy tip; Paint the wire black. This will make it less obtrusive and allow the birds to become the focus of attention.
A variety of perch sizes, shapes and diameters will help exercise the bird's feet and toes. Place perches strategically to prevent droppings from contaminating water and food dishes and to prevent the tail from hanging in dishes or on the floor.
A variety of perch sizes, shapes and diameters will help exercise the bird's feet and toes. Place perches strategically to prevent droppings from contaminating water and food dishes and to prevent the tail from hanging in dishes or on the floor.
Sexual Maturity
Maturity is attained at about 9 to 12 months, but these birds are most productive after their second year and continue to be so until about their fifth year. Personal experience indicated that birds as young as 9 months if weaned at least six month prior to the colder winter months, successfully weaned clutches of 3 and more eggs.
Courtship Display
The male will approach the female with feathers puffed and leant with its head towards the female with beak wiping against the perch. This will be accompanied by an almost inaudible crow-like sound. The female will lower herself on the perch with a quivering tail.
Maintenance
Long-tails require daily fresh water and greens. Seed should be replaced regularly.
Health and Lifespan
Finches will average five to eight years if properly cared for. The Long-tails do not suffer any other diseases than which may normally afflict birds. A regular worming program, about three times a year is most important. The birds do not appreciate damp and should be kept in a dry environment.
Clutch
Clutch sizes vary between four and six eggs and our aviaries obtain an average of three to four fledglings per clutch.
Suitable Aviaries and compatible birds
For breeding purposes long tailed grass finches will be quite happy in breeding cabinets. These should have at least the following dimensions: 700mm x 400mm x 400mm. These birds are at their best in larger aviaries. Our aviaries have roofing over the entire area of the aviary. We keep our Double long tail grass finches in a colony environment and five pairs are kept in a 5.5 x 1.2 x 2.2 meter area with an enclosed service passage at the back of the aviary.
Best Climate
A pretty hardy species although does best in NSW and areas north. It is most important to ensure the aviary is kept in a dry and draft-proof environment.
Diet
In our aviaries a basic finch feed is fed daily, supplemented with a finch supplements i.e. AviPlus for Finches and soft bills combined with grated greens i.e brocolli heads, AviPlus egg food, as well as soaked and sprouted seeds. Avi-Cal, a calcium supplement is supplemented once a month and increased to once a week during breeding season. All of the above is mixed together and supplied separately as a moist softfood. Half ripe wild grass seeds are fed in season whilst fresh fruit is supplied at least twice per week. Prior to the commencement of the breeding season life food in the form of meal worms are slowly introduced and increased gradually during hatching until fledging when the volume is then reduced to normal breeding quantities.
Grit and crushed egg shell always availabl.
Grit and crushed egg shell always availabl.
Breeder's Notes
The Shaft-tail can be considered an eager breeder if given the right accommodations. Some breeders have reported success with breeding them in a colony situations, but I've had had better luck by placing them as individual pairs in flights or cages. Probably because the colonies I tried to use were not large enough. They are fine in mixed collections with birds that are able to hold their ground, but Shaft-tails can be inquisitive and annoying to other more shy breeders. They are active birds and I like to give them at least a 3' flight cage or an outside aviary to fly in. (3' flight cage) This also keeps them from breaking the long points on their tails which gives the bird its name. I have bred Shafttails in my smaller breeding cages as well. Shaft-tails like to get down and hide in their nests. While they will take a basket or other similar nest, I prefer to use a standard sized finch box with a hole at the top. This lets them build their nests deeper in the bottom and hide below the entrance hole. (click to see nestbox) They will build a rough nest, but I can't say that they were master builders. I provided coco fibers, long grasses, rice hay and various soft materials, but there did not seem to be a preference for any particular material. The average clutch is 4-7 eggs and incubation lasts approximately 13 days. Both sexes share in the incubation duties and the feeding of the young. No additional food items were offered other than to increase the amount of egg food, which they eagerly ate and quickly provided the young. The young will fledge at approximately 21 days and will require an additional 21 days to be independent. I have read that the young, while able to eat on their own, remain somewhat reliant on their parents and that too early of a separation might result in some losses. I can't say if this is true or not, but I left the young in with the parents for quite a while before moving them to a different cage.
Shaft-tails are reported to have strong pair bonds. I can say that if a bonded pair is separated and are within calling distance, they will quite loudly call to each other and ignore any other mates that you provide. They are quite easily fostered under Society finches as their begging pattern is typical of estrildid finches.
There is one subspecies of the Shaft-tail finch known as the Heck's Shaft-tail (P. acuticauda hecki) which has a bright coral red beak. The red color is dominant over the yellow and intermediate birds are often produced when trying to develop yellow-billed birds from red-beaked birds. Because of the early popularity of the red beak and its dominant inheritance, the yellow beak variety is rarely seen now in US aviculture. The reality is that in the wild there is a smooth transition of color from the yellow-beaked variety of the western part of thier range to the red-beaked variety in the eastern part of the range. Because of this, many ornithologists do not recognize the Heck's as a distinct subspecies, but rather a morph within the population. The Shaft-tail finch is very similar to another Australian Grassfinch, the Parson or Black Throated finch (Poephila cincta). The most notable difference is the Parson has a shorter tail and black beak. The two should not be housed together. In spite of the beak color, which is often a sexual trigger and species indicator, the two species will hybridize. It has been reported that the hybrids are fertile. The same has been reported for the Masked Grassfinch (Poephila personata) so Shafttails should not be housed with them either.
There are a number of color mutations for the Shaft-tail, including fawns, a dilute fawn called the Isabele (Fawns are sex-linked and Isabels are autosomal recessive), a cream and all white individuals as well. There is reportedly a gray mutation and a pink billed mutation in Europe. Australian mutations are also being developed, but cannot be exported.
Shaft-tails are reported to have strong pair bonds. I can say that if a bonded pair is separated and are within calling distance, they will quite loudly call to each other and ignore any other mates that you provide. They are quite easily fostered under Society finches as their begging pattern is typical of estrildid finches.
There is one subspecies of the Shaft-tail finch known as the Heck's Shaft-tail (P. acuticauda hecki) which has a bright coral red beak. The red color is dominant over the yellow and intermediate birds are often produced when trying to develop yellow-billed birds from red-beaked birds. Because of the early popularity of the red beak and its dominant inheritance, the yellow beak variety is rarely seen now in US aviculture. The reality is that in the wild there is a smooth transition of color from the yellow-beaked variety of the western part of thier range to the red-beaked variety in the eastern part of the range. Because of this, many ornithologists do not recognize the Heck's as a distinct subspecies, but rather a morph within the population. The Shaft-tail finch is very similar to another Australian Grassfinch, the Parson or Black Throated finch (Poephila cincta). The most notable difference is the Parson has a shorter tail and black beak. The two should not be housed together. In spite of the beak color, which is often a sexual trigger and species indicator, the two species will hybridize. It has been reported that the hybrids are fertile. The same has been reported for the Masked Grassfinch (Poephila personata) so Shafttails should not be housed with them either.
There are a number of color mutations for the Shaft-tail, including fawns, a dilute fawn called the Isabele (Fawns are sex-linked and Isabels are autosomal recessive), a cream and all white individuals as well. There is reportedly a gray mutation and a pink billed mutation in Europe. Australian mutations are also being developed, but cannot be exported.
Health
As with any finch the onus is on the finch keeper to ensure that their charges are kept in the best possible condition.
In the case of the Longtail -and most finches for that matter- this is made more difficult as the birds spend extended periods on the ground.
For this reason alone a strict worming regime is a must for your aviary and we treat our flocks every 3 months. Some may chose to have faecal floats done and determine from the results whether to worm or not but we chose to include it as part of our regular finch husbandry. Again this species preference for green grasses also makes it a target for any worm eggs contained on the actual grass itself grown outside the aviary let alone the "nasties" that might tend to stick to the shoes of their doting keeper!! Any number of products are available to treat for parasitic worms and mites so we strongly suggest you talk to your avian vet about designing a program for your flock - Dr's Colin Walker (from the Australian Pigeon Company) and James Harris have been invaluable in designing ours!! Mind you I don't think there is an avian vet we haven't "annoyed" at some stage over the past too many years in finches!!
Products used on our Longtails in their water bowls include Panacur 100, Cydectin Plus (often called Moxidectin Plus), Oxfendazole and Equimax Liquid Allwormer. Newly acquired birds are treated with Avitrol Plus given directly to the beak as per dose rate on container but we strongly advise against using this wormer as a flock treatment in the water bowl.
For stubborn air-sac mite in new imports we use a dilution of alcohol and Ivomec given direct to the back of the neck - you must get the dose rate correct or you will end up with very inebriated finches!! The alcohol is absorbed straight into the blood stream and the wormer gets working straight away. Ivomec given in water usually ends up with the medication simply stuck to wet feathers!!
If you live in warm, wet climes then it would be imperative that you treat for Coccidia on a regular basis. Although not a huge problem here ( up until July it has rained for 2 half days this year at our aviaries!!!!) we still use Baycox about twice a year. Others have been experimenting with using Baycox combined with their wormer of choice and this appears to be the way to go for flock treatments. Since trialling this method we have experienced no problems at all.
Hopefully that will give you a few tips on keeping your Longtails in tip-top condition throughout the year.
In the case of the Longtail -and most finches for that matter- this is made more difficult as the birds spend extended periods on the ground.
For this reason alone a strict worming regime is a must for your aviary and we treat our flocks every 3 months. Some may chose to have faecal floats done and determine from the results whether to worm or not but we chose to include it as part of our regular finch husbandry. Again this species preference for green grasses also makes it a target for any worm eggs contained on the actual grass itself grown outside the aviary let alone the "nasties" that might tend to stick to the shoes of their doting keeper!! Any number of products are available to treat for parasitic worms and mites so we strongly suggest you talk to your avian vet about designing a program for your flock - Dr's Colin Walker (from the Australian Pigeon Company) and James Harris have been invaluable in designing ours!! Mind you I don't think there is an avian vet we haven't "annoyed" at some stage over the past too many years in finches!!
Products used on our Longtails in their water bowls include Panacur 100, Cydectin Plus (often called Moxidectin Plus), Oxfendazole and Equimax Liquid Allwormer. Newly acquired birds are treated with Avitrol Plus given directly to the beak as per dose rate on container but we strongly advise against using this wormer as a flock treatment in the water bowl.
For stubborn air-sac mite in new imports we use a dilution of alcohol and Ivomec given direct to the back of the neck - you must get the dose rate correct or you will end up with very inebriated finches!! The alcohol is absorbed straight into the blood stream and the wormer gets working straight away. Ivomec given in water usually ends up with the medication simply stuck to wet feathers!!
If you live in warm, wet climes then it would be imperative that you treat for Coccidia on a regular basis. Although not a huge problem here ( up until July it has rained for 2 half days this year at our aviaries!!!!) we still use Baycox about twice a year. Others have been experimenting with using Baycox combined with their wormer of choice and this appears to be the way to go for flock treatments. Since trialling this method we have experienced no problems at all.
Hopefully that will give you a few tips on keeping your Longtails in tip-top condition throughout the year.
Sexing
I have always used the size and shape of the bib as an easy way of sexing this species although I find the Yellow-billed form slightly easier than the Heck's. The cock has the larger bib which extends out to the sides of the chest especially when he is squatting on the perch. The hen has the more pear-shaped bib which is usually smaller and narrower than the males. If you get very lucky you may even get a male Longtail that "sings" but this is a rarity in captivity.
I have only ever had one such male and it was amazing watching him sitting in the sun singing for all he was worth. I have mentioned this to many breeders and most had never had a male that sang in such a manner.
Other breeders sex their birds by the leg patches stating that the hens were smaller than the males and a slightly different colouration - as I have never noticed this I nevertheless pass on this "hint"!
Other say that only the males have the two long tail feathers but I have seen many older hens that also posses these beautiful feathers.
When in breeding colouration the males head and body often appears to have a slightly brighter hue to it than the females.
I have only ever had one such male and it was amazing watching him sitting in the sun singing for all he was worth. I have mentioned this to many breeders and most had never had a male that sang in such a manner.
Other breeders sex their birds by the leg patches stating that the hens were smaller than the males and a slightly different colouration - as I have never noticed this I nevertheless pass on this "hint"!
Other say that only the males have the two long tail feathers but I have seen many older hens that also posses these beautiful feathers.
When in breeding colouration the males head and body often appears to have a slightly brighter hue to it than the females.
Special considerations
Because they are prone to becoming obese if housed in too small of an enclosure, Shaft-tail Finches should be kept in flights which are at least 3 feet (1 meter) long. Although they are generally peaceful, pairs housed in close confinement may become aggressive towards other pairs of shaft-tails or other closely related finches such as the Masked Grassfinch and the Parson's Finch. Because they may not fair well in the cold (at temperatures below 59°F [15°C]), they may need to be wintered indoors or provided with a heated shelter if housed outdoors. The Shaft-tail has reportedly hybridized with the following species: Parson's Finch (P. cincta)--this mating creates a fertile hybrid!, Masked Grassfinch (P. personata)--this mating creates a fertile hybrid!, Owl Finch (P. bichenovii), Zebra Finch (P. guttata), Diamond Firetail ( Emblema guttata), Spice Finch ( Lonchura punctulata), Chestnut-breasted Finch (L. castaneothorax), Bengalese Finch (L. striata domestica), Crimson Finch ( Neochmia phaeton), Plum-headed Finch (Aidemosyne modesta), so take care not to allow these species to breed together.
Breeding Tips
Shaft-tail Finches may breed in a cage or aviary. Because they are picky, individuals should be allowed to select their own mate from a group of at least 8-10 birds. A cock will court a hen by hopping toward her, bowing, and bobbing his head; hey may or may not sing at this time. A receptive hen may return the bowing and head-bobbing movements; she solicits copulation by quivering her tail. They will often accept nest boxes placed high in the enclosure or natural sites (such as dense shrubbery) for nesting; giving pairs several nesting options is best. In the wild, pairs build their nests in topmost branches of eucalyptus trees or in the tops of pandanus palms using grass stalks, plant silks, and white feathers. Provide pairs with coconut fiber, long stalks of grass, strips of bast, and white feathers for nest construction. Both sexes will take turns incubating the eggs, and both may roost in the nest at night. Live food and egg food should be provided for chick rearing purposes. Young hatch with flesh-colored skin, white down, and a pale beak which begins to darken around day 8. Nestlings begin to open their eyes around day 8-10, and their first feathers begin to emerge around day 7-8. Brooding ceases when the chicks reach 9 days of age. Close-banding chicks is recommended when they are about 12 days old.
Although shaft-tails form a strong pair bond, pairs which are reluctant to breed may be stimulated by swapping their partners out for new mates.
Although shaft-tails form a strong pair bond, pairs which are reluctant to breed may be stimulated by swapping their partners out for new mates.
Aviculture
The Long-tailed Finch adapts readily to captivity, although it requires an aviary rather than a cage to thrive, and damp conditions need to be avoided.[1] Export of the species has been banned from Australia, and they have become rather expensive for a beginner in the UK.[7] A caged pair are best kept on their own in the breeding season, because they become aggressive to other small finches.[7] They breed readily in captivity, sometimes producing two broods a year, and live for around 5 to 8 years. In captivity, a pair of Heck's Grass Finches (P. a. hecki) might raise brood after brood continuously, which would jeopardise their health, if they not are not feed with an adequate diet all year round.[7] Alternatively, the sexes can be separated for the winter.[7]
source
http://www.inyoniaviaries.co.za/long_tail_breeding.htm
http://www.efinch.com/species/shaft.htm
http://www.cliftonfinchaviaries.org/cfa/tails/tails.htm
http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Birds/Long-tail-Finch/2263
http://www.finchinfo.com/birds/finches/species/shaft-tail_long-tailed_grassfinch.php
http://www.inyoniaviaries.co.za/long_tail_breeding.htm
http://www.efinch.com/species/shaft.htm
http://www.cliftonfinchaviaries.org/cfa/tails/tails.htm
http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au/factsheets/Birds/Long-tail-Finch/2263
http://www.finchinfo.com/birds/finches/species/shaft-tail_long-tailed_grassfinch.php