Introduction
Probably no other exotic finch has received more attention than the Gouldian Finch. Its shear beauty dictates that finch lovers around the world would praise it and write about it. While there are many books available and most if not all of those contain valuable information, there is no doubt disagreement among Gouldian breeders as to which methods are best for success with this species. Large numbers are bred in captivity, particularly in Australia, where the National Parks and Wildlife Department of the state of South Australia had permit returns in the late 1990s that showed more than 13,000 Gouldian Finches were being kept by aviculturists. It goes without saying that what works for some will not work for others. So in some respects it seems redundant for me to write about my methods of breeding Goulds, but again what works for me might work for you, then who know?
I have bred Goulds since 1972, and during that time I have had many experiences both good and bad. Still I try new methods, new nests, new cages, a variety of new ways to improve, hell, we all do! One truth is, not all Gould bred well, but those that do, can breed very well, almost out-producing any finch. My first year ever, I produced 24 young from a single pair in a small cage. In all these years, I am sorry to say I have never been able to repeat that amount of success. Just to indicate how peculiar these birds can be. My second year with nine pair of birds set up for breeding I produced only 18 young. A dismal year, to say the least.
I have bred Goulds since 1972, and during that time I have had many experiences both good and bad. Still I try new methods, new nests, new cages, a variety of new ways to improve, hell, we all do! One truth is, not all Gould bred well, but those that do, can breed very well, almost out-producing any finch. My first year ever, I produced 24 young from a single pair in a small cage. In all these years, I am sorry to say I have never been able to repeat that amount of success. Just to indicate how peculiar these birds can be. My second year with nine pair of birds set up for breeding I produced only 18 young. A dismal year, to say the least.
Basic Breeding Set-Up
Before deciding to breed your gouldians, you need to make sure you have allotted the space, time, and money it may take to set your birds up for breeding and to accommodate the young which they might produce. You will need a separate cage in which to house the young once they are weaned, and you will need to decide if you are ultimately going to keep the babies or find other homes for them. Once your decision is made, the following guidelines should aid you in breeding your finches:
First, select a male and a female that are:
Next, bring the pair into breeding condition: Note: Gouldians tend to only breed during the fall and winter (their "breeding season"), so you may not have much success if you try to breed them during other parts of the year.
One Pair Per Cage
Advantages:
No fighting with or disturbances from other pairs, easier to observe the birds and perform nest checks, more control over breeding outcome since you control who each bird mates with.
Disadvantages:
May not stimulate those pairs which seem to breed best in the colony situation.
-OR-
Colony Breeding
Advantages:
May help to encourage breeding in those individuals which are stimulated by group interaction.
Disadvantages:
Less control over breeding outcomes, may lead to increased aggression among the inhabitants, may not stimulate those birds which seem to need seclusion from other pairs to breed.
Next, prepare the birds, add them to the enclosure, and observe them:
Clip the birds' toenails prior to introducing the finches into the breeding enclosure.
This will help prevent the birds from accidentally puncturing any eggs they may lay. Add the birds as described above, and observe them. Separate any bird which does not seem to be tolerating the other(s). Some gouldians may need to be set up with a different mate or in a different breeding set up. Check the cage(s) once a day to refill the food and water dishes. Once a pair has begun building its nest, keep a watch (from a distance) for eggs. Record the date that each egg is laid.
Most gouldians will begin incubation either after the 3rd or last egg is laid--incubation begins when at least one bird is occupying the nest during the day as well as at night. Some gouldians do not readily tolerate nest checks, but but if your pair(s) will, you may wish to candle the eggs (to check for fertility) on or after the 5th day of incubation. This is not necessary, however, and it may be better not to disturb the pair by checking their nest since unnecessary disturbances could frighten the pair into abandoning their eggs/young.
Finally, provide for the pair and their young:
Many people wonder what they need to do to help their birds raise their babies once they have hatched. The answer is to provide a rich, varied diet which includes giving the birds an egg-mix 2-3 times daily, to resist disturbing the birds, and to keep a distant watch in case anything goes wrong (such as tossing or abandoning the chicks). Only if something goes wrong should you step in and take action. Remember to keep detailed notes on the breeding progress of all birds. Lastly, when the chicks are weaned, they will need to be removed to their own cage if you wish to allow the parents to breed again.
First, select a male and a female that are:
- Sexually mature (and at least 6-9 months of age)4
- Of the same species
- Unrelated to each other (do not inbreed)
- Physically healthy (not too thin and not too obese, normal appearing feathers and droppings, appear bright and alert)
- Free of (potentially genetic) physical defects
- Bonded to each other
Next, bring the pair into breeding condition: Note: Gouldians tend to only breed during the fall and winter (their "breeding season"), so you may not have much success if you try to breed them during other parts of the year.
- Begin feeding a flush diet that is high in protein. Hens will also require additional calcium, in the correct 1:2 ratio with phosphorus. One of the best ways to meet these increased dietary requirements is to feed an egg-mix (boiled egg chopped shell and all blended with finely chopped vegetables). You will need to provide this diet daily from before the first egg is laid until any babies which hatch finish their first molt.
One Pair Per Cage
Advantages:
No fighting with or disturbances from other pairs, easier to observe the birds and perform nest checks, more control over breeding outcome since you control who each bird mates with.
Disadvantages:
May not stimulate those pairs which seem to breed best in the colony situation.
- The breeding cage should measure at least 30" (76 cm) long × 18" (46 cm) wide × 18" (46 cm) tall. Box-style breeding cages are preferred, since all of the walls are solid except for the front, which provides more security to the birds.
- If direct access to natural sunlight is unavailable, provide a full spectrum light on a timer.
- Consider using tube feeders if you notice your birds trying to nest in their seed cup.
- Keep the enclosure in a low traffic area where the ambient temperature is at least 65 ° F.
- Provide a cuttle bone or another safe source of calcium at all times.
- Provide an appropriate nest and nesting material. Nesting materials which are appropriate to provide for your birds include: coconut fiber, burlap cut into 3" strips, shreds of newspaper, and shreds of facial tissue. Avoid small, synthetic fibers such as yarn, stringy material such as hair, and avoid hay, soil, eucalyptus leaves, and corn cob (which may lead to fungal growth).5 Although gouldians may accept a wide range of nests (from wooden nest boxes to domed bamboo nests), a plastic nest box is prefered because it can be disinfected and reused.
- If possible, place the nest on the outside front of the cage (this makes nest checks much easier). If this is not an option, the nest may be placed inside the cage (towards one of the upper corners); try to place it so that you can peer into it from outside of the cage.
- Place some nesting material inside of the nest and the rest on the floor of the enclosure, but not directly under any perches so that it does not become soiled.
- Provide two perches, one at each end of the cage.
- When the birds are ready to be added to the enclosure, add the male first and let him investigate the cage for a few days before adding the hen.
-OR-
Colony Breeding
Advantages:
May help to encourage breeding in those individuals which are stimulated by group interaction.
Disadvantages:
Less control over breeding outcomes, may lead to increased aggression among the inhabitants, may not stimulate those birds which seem to need seclusion from other pairs to breed.
- Colony breeding is best when limited to one species (as opposed to mixed species).*2
- *However, if you wish to breed mixed species in a communal aviary, select birds that are compatible yet have very different plumages as well as different nesting habits to reduce the sources of potential fighting3.
- This set-up requires that at least 3-5 pairs of birds be housed together, so the enclosure must be large enough to accommodate them.
- Keep the enclosure in a low traffic area where the ambient temperature is at least 65 ° F.
- Provide a cuttle bone or another safe source of calcium at all times.
- If direct access to natural sunlight is unavailable, provide a full spectrum light on a timer.
- Take steps to reduce aggression:
- Provide at least two nests per pair of finches (all nests should be placed at similar heights in the enclosure).Although gouldians may accept a wide range of nests (from wooden nest boxes to domed bamboo nests), plastic nest boxes are prefered because they can be disinfected and reused.
- Provide adequate cover (live and/or silk plants, especially around the nesting sites). This allows the birds to be somewhat hidden from one another which is important because some birds become very defensive of their nest and need their area to be visually isolated from other birds.1
- Provide plenty of perches but do not crowd the enclosure or encroach on flying space.
- Provide at least two feed and water stations.
- Watch for hostility and remove any birds which seem to be terrorizing the rest.
- Place some nesting material inside each nest and the rest on the floor of the enclosure, but not directly under any perches so that it does not become soiled. Nesting materials which are appropriate to provide for your birds include: coconut fiber, burlap cut into 3" strips, shreds of newspaper, and shreds of facial tissue. Avoid small, synthetic fibers such as yarn, stringy material such as hair, and avoid hay, soil, eucalyptus leaves, and corn cob (which may lead to fungal growth).5
- When the birds (at least 3-5 pairs) are ready to be added to the enclosure, add them all at the same time.
Next, prepare the birds, add them to the enclosure, and observe them:
Clip the birds' toenails prior to introducing the finches into the breeding enclosure.
This will help prevent the birds from accidentally puncturing any eggs they may lay. Add the birds as described above, and observe them. Separate any bird which does not seem to be tolerating the other(s). Some gouldians may need to be set up with a different mate or in a different breeding set up. Check the cage(s) once a day to refill the food and water dishes. Once a pair has begun building its nest, keep a watch (from a distance) for eggs. Record the date that each egg is laid.
Most gouldians will begin incubation either after the 3rd or last egg is laid--incubation begins when at least one bird is occupying the nest during the day as well as at night. Some gouldians do not readily tolerate nest checks, but but if your pair(s) will, you may wish to candle the eggs (to check for fertility) on or after the 5th day of incubation. This is not necessary, however, and it may be better not to disturb the pair by checking their nest since unnecessary disturbances could frighten the pair into abandoning their eggs/young.
Finally, provide for the pair and their young:
Many people wonder what they need to do to help their birds raise their babies once they have hatched. The answer is to provide a rich, varied diet which includes giving the birds an egg-mix 2-3 times daily, to resist disturbing the birds, and to keep a distant watch in case anything goes wrong (such as tossing or abandoning the chicks). Only if something goes wrong should you step in and take action. Remember to keep detailed notes on the breeding progress of all birds. Lastly, when the chicks are weaned, they will need to be removed to their own cage if you wish to allow the parents to breed again.
THE NESTING CYCLE
The nesting cycle of Goulds is much the same for any Australian finch. The average clutch is 4-5 eggs but larger clutches are not uncommon. The eggs are laid every day and often incubation begins when the first egg is laid. After about 5-7 days of incubation the color of the eggs will change, particularly if they are fertile. Freshly laid eggs are white, 5-6 day old fertile eggs are rosy pink, infertile eggs are yellow-white. By inspecting the nest at the end of the first week you can determine the fertility of the clutch and even remove any eggs that are infertile at that time. A small pen-light flash light is useful in doing this. Don't be alarmed at inspecting the nest. Don't do it too often but it should be done at at least once on or about the 7th day. Using a small spoon remove I remove infertile eggs, although it is not necessary to do so. However there are a few unspoken rules to consider. For example if the clutch contains 5 eggs are only one is fertile, I personally would not remove all 4 infertile ones. Why? The absence of so many eggs could give the parents some concern and result in abandoning the nest. The eggs hatch in 15-16 days, one at a time, but it seems before you know it all have hatched. You'll know right away if they are going to be fed, as they parent feed him almost immediately and the food is visible along the neck of the babies. I make certain at this time they have unlimited amounts of spray millet, nesting food and fresh greens once a day. The young grow quickly and before you know it they are already getting quill on their wings. Often times this is a critical period for new parent Goulds. I cannot explain why, but frequently new parent seem to tire of their young and abandoning the young or worse, throwing them out of the nest is not uncommon. What do you do? Frankly there is not much you can do, except return them to the nest if that is an option, or search for a pair of suitable foster parents. Fortunately, most will raise the young successfully, but the former does happen and you need to be aware of it and prepared. It seems that young inexperience birds are more likely to behave this way, however I have even had good breeding birds to occasionally tire and do this. Its unpredictable and a frustrating lesson in Gould behavior. I rarely let the parent raise more than 4 young at a time. Many pairs will hatch 5 or 6 young per clutch and many would succeed in raising all of them but I have come to the conclusion over the years that 4 young per nest is just fine and I will often try and find a suitable foster parent for the 5th and 6th chicks. Often times if these are allowed to remain in a large nest of young, they will lag behind in development and not thrive anyway, so fostering them early is my choice. My first choice is to foster them to another pair of Goulds with smaller clutches and young of the same age. If this is not available, then I search for either a pair of Societies with only one or two young of the same age, or even a pair of Zebras. Zebras can and do raise Goulds very well, but are often less suitable for fostering than Societies because of their general nervous habits. Regardless, I have used some of my cage bred Zebras and Societies many times for this and had success.
Young Goulds definitely take a slightly longer time to develop and fledge compared to many other birds. But this is not a problem. They also require a longer weaning period before they are self sufficient from the adults. Again, this should not be a problem but one must be aware of it and not make any attempt to remove them prematurely from the parents or foster parents. I am never in a hurry to remove the young. Often times the parents begin a second clutch and the first clutch is still in the breeding cage. It is at this time that I remove them.
CARE OF YOUNG GOULDS
What potential touchy subject. Everyone has their own tried and proven ideas about raising young Goulds to maturity. Sometimes indeed that is easier said than done. It seems that some people invariably experience a notable lost of young birds during this period. I'm not certain I can shed any sure-fire method to curtail losses, but I do have a couple of idea that seem to work for me.
Young Goulds need plenty of space and you can easily accumulate lots of youngster during a breeding season. I always try to give them adequate living space in holding cages, never placing to many birds per cage. The size of the cage is less important to me than the number of birds per cage and the more space you can offer them the better your chances of minimizing losses that occur during times of stress from juvenile to adult. Many people report that the first molt from juvenile plumage to adult plumage is a stressful period and I agree. Providing lots of flight room will reduce the stress on birds during this period. Most of my holding cages are about 2 feet square and I usually house only 6 or 7 birds in such a cage. I would even recommend smaller number if you have the cage space. But that number seems comfortable for most Goulds. I also provide an iodine supplement in the water during this period and adequate water soluble vitamins regularly but not necessarily every day to these young birds. Naturally they receive the best diet I can offer which does not differ from the diet I offer the adults. Sometimes I provide extra heat to young birds if they appear to need it. There is not doubt that Goulds like to be warm and thrive in hot climates, even though they can adapt to many temperature, since Louisiana has naturally a warm climate, I do my best to maintain as even a temperature as possible. However I have also learned that overheating has its problems too. So a good temperature range from the 60°s and up to 80°s is about the norm. Our summers are very hot and many times during these months the temperature will climb daily into the 90°s and perhaps higher. During these times I ventilate the rooms continuously to minimize the extreme heat. The birds seem to thrive. Prolonged and sudden high temperatures can bring about a sudden molt in all Goulds and this should be avoided if possible.
Young Goulds need plenty of space and you can easily accumulate lots of youngster during a breeding season. I always try to give them adequate living space in holding cages, never placing to many birds per cage. The size of the cage is less important to me than the number of birds per cage and the more space you can offer them the better your chances of minimizing losses that occur during times of stress from juvenile to adult. Many people report that the first molt from juvenile plumage to adult plumage is a stressful period and I agree. Providing lots of flight room will reduce the stress on birds during this period. Most of my holding cages are about 2 feet square and I usually house only 6 or 7 birds in such a cage. I would even recommend smaller number if you have the cage space. But that number seems comfortable for most Goulds. I also provide an iodine supplement in the water during this period and adequate water soluble vitamins regularly but not necessarily every day to these young birds. Naturally they receive the best diet I can offer which does not differ from the diet I offer the adults. Sometimes I provide extra heat to young birds if they appear to need it. There is not doubt that Goulds like to be warm and thrive in hot climates, even though they can adapt to many temperature, since Louisiana has naturally a warm climate, I do my best to maintain as even a temperature as possible. However I have also learned that overheating has its problems too. So a good temperature range from the 60°s and up to 80°s is about the norm. Our summers are very hot and many times during these months the temperature will climb daily into the 90°s and perhaps higher. During these times I ventilate the rooms continuously to minimize the extreme heat. The birds seem to thrive. Prolonged and sudden high temperatures can bring about a sudden molt in all Goulds and this should be avoided if possible.
SEED DIET FOR GOULDS
- 4 parts of any good standard finch mixture (I use Brooks brand Finch Blend) which consist of the following seeds: Small yellow millet, small red millet, canary seed, white proso millet and hulled oats.
- 1 part White Proso millet
- 1 part straight Canary (I find that Goulds like canary seed a lot!)
- 1 part Japanese millet (Goulds love this peculiar dark brown seed)
- Spray Millet (I usually keep this in front of them most of the time, but especially when they have young in the nest.)
- Crushed egg shell (which I get from a local Chinese Restaurant) Goulds love it!
- Sunshine Vita-Mineral Grit for Finches. (They love this too!)
The breeding cages are serviced every day for food. The water is routinely changed every other day, or as needed. It is carefully monitored each day but only changed if soiled or if nearly empty. Water soluble bird vitamins are never added to the water. Rarely, is vitamin enriched water is given.
Fostering
Definition of Fostering
Fostering is a rearing technique where eggs or chicks are taken away from their biological parents and placed under the care of another pair of the same or a different species.2
Reasons to Foster
Fostering may be used to establish an exotic species,1 to rescue chicks or eggs in the event that the biological parents cannot adequately care for them, or to increase productivity of the parent birds by stimulating them to start another clutch once their eggs/chicks are removed.1,2 If you are going to use fostering as a means to increase production, you should still limit your egg-laying hens to three clutches per breeding season so that the demand on the hen's body does not become too great. Likewise, you should limit your foster pairs to three clutches per season since chick rearing is such a demanding job.
Potential Disadvantages of Fostering
Several problems may result from fostering (or attempting to foster) gouldians. First, foster parents might not accept the eggs and chicks which are placed in their care.2 Second, if you are fostering chicks because their biological parents lack the requisite rearing skills to care for them, you may be inadvertently placing a selection pressure on that undesirable trait. A gouldian's ability to raise its own young is a skill which may not be solely a learned behavior, but have a genetic basis. By fostering the young from an unreliable pair, you are artificially selecting for what nature is attempting to select against: poor parenting skills.
Two other problems may arise due to fostering, but these issues are typically only caused by fostering gouldian chicks to a different species (such as society finches). First, certain infectious agents may be passed from society finch foster parents to the gouldian chicks that they are raising.2 These diseases can be fatal to fledging gouldians, as is the case with cochlosomosis and Campylobacter spp. infections.3 Society finches may be asymptomatic carriers of both of the pathogens responsible for those diseases.3 (On the other hand, society finches can prevent the spread of air sac mites when fostering gouldians because they are not susceptible to those parasites.3)
The second problem caused by fostering gouldians to a different species is an increased risk of imprinting.1 Once a chick has imprinted upon its foster parents, it may prefer to associate more with the species which raised it than it would with other gouldians. This can lead to problems later on, because the imprinted gouldian may refuse to breed with members of its own species.3 In order for a gouldian chick to imprint upon its own species, it must be exposed to other gouldian finches from the 15th to the 40th days of life.3
How to Foster
Step 1: Select an appropriate pair of foster parents. Society (aka Bengalese) finches are the most commonly used (and will breed year-round), but zebra finches or even another pair of lady gouldians may also work. The foster parents should be chosen based on their parenting skills and not their color mutation.1 If time permits, allow unproven pairs to raise a clutch of their own chicks; doing so will allow you to evaluate their potential as foster parents.1 Using a second pair of gouldians as foster parents is ideal because imprinting no longer becomes an issue. Regardless of the species you select as foster parents, make sure that the birds you choose are healthy and free of protozoa, bacteria, and other pathogens that may cause illness or death in the chicks.
Step 2: Synchronize the breeding of the foster pair with the breeding of the parent birds. In order for most potential foster parents to accept eggs or chicks from another pair, they need to be on the same page as the birds they are accepting eggs/chicks from. The foster pair must be set up for breeding to stimulate nesting behavior at or around the same time that the parent birds begin to breed. For best results, house each foster pair in their own enclosure. This is especially important for society finches who often prefer socializing with other munias (when given the option) over breeding. Note that in some cases, a trio of male society finches may successfully foster chicks, but the greatest success is usually gained by using a male-female pair of societies. You may need to set up multiple pairs for fostering1 to increase your chances for success. Be sure to feed your foster pairs an adequate diet for breeding just as you are feeding your gouldians for breeding.
Step 3: Transfer the eggs/chicks from the biological parents to the foster pair. If transferring eggs, allow the biological parents to finish the clutch before you move the eggs into the foster pair's nest. This will improve the chances of the eggs hatching on the same day, which enhances the hatchlings' survival. Replace the foster pair's eggs with the eggs from the gouldian pair(s). Each foster pair should only have 4-6 eggs to care for at a time. Too few eggs in the nest may not be enough stimulation or encouragement for the foster pair to begin incubation, so use additional dummy eggs if necessary. On the other hand, too many eggs in the nest are cumbersome and will hinder successful incubation. If possible, only foster fertile eggs. You will need to candle the eggs after they have been incubated by the fosters for several days to make sure that they are still developing correctly. You may also wish to mark the fostered eggs in some way (with a nontoxic marker or dull #2 pencil) to indicate which biological pair they came from. Society or zebra finch eggs can be left in the nest to be incubated along with the fostered gouldian eggs (as long as no more than six eggs are present in total), however the parents may preferentially care for their own chicks over the fostered chicks, so it is generally advised to avoid fostering multiple species to a given pair at a time.
If transferring chicks, try to place the chicks in another nest which already has chicks of the same species and of a similar age in it. This is especially true for cases in which only a single chick needs to be fostered; adding a single chick to a nest with other chicks of a similar age will yield the best results (parent birds may not feel stimulated to feed just one lone chick). You may also be able to transfer newly hatched chicks to a foster pair which is "sitting tight" on eggs; this tends to occur when a pair is late in incubation and expecting the eggs to hatch soon. Replace some of the foster eggs with the newly hatched chicks. Transferring older chicks to a nest which only has eggs in it may not work (although it is worth a shot if no other options are available). If the fosters refuse to accept the older chicks, you may have to hand feed them. Once again, each foster pair should be limited to raising six or fewer chicks at a time. Any more than six chicks in the nest may be too much demand for the foster pair to keep up with.
Step 4: Monitor the foster pair. Keep an eye on the foster pair and the eggs/chicks they are caring for. If necessary, intervene and hand feed chicks or try switching eggs/chicks from an unreliable foster pair to another pair. Remember to feed your foster pair for breeding just as you would the biological pair; the higher plane of nutrition will allow the parents to provide the chicks with an adequate diet for growth.
Avoiding Problems with Fostering
Problem: Not enough eggs are present to stimulate incubation.
Solution: Try adding dummy eggs to the clutch to increase the number of eggs present under the birds. Birds may not incubate if less than four eggs are present, or may have trouble incubating if more than 6 eggs are present.
Problem: Trying to foster gouldians to a trio of male society finches.
Solution: Because male society finches do not lay eggs, you may have to stimulate them to incubate by tricking them into thinking a clutch of eggs is being laid in their nest. Try adding a dummy egg to their nest each morning until a full clutch of 4-6 eggs is present. If they have begun incubating the clutch, you can swap the dummy eggs out for the fostered eggs.
Problem: Only one baby needs to be fostered.
Solution: One baby alone in a nest may not be a strong enough stimulus to get the parents (biological or foster) to care for it. Ideally, you should try to place this lone baby in a nest which has other babies of the same age and preferably of the same species. If this option is not available, you will probably have to attempt to hand feed the chick.
Problem: Fostering newly hatched babies.
Solution: If possible, transfer newly hatched chicks to a nest with other babies of the same species and age. If this option is not available, try adding newly hatched babies to a foster pair's nest with eggs that are being incubated "tightly." Remove all but one or two of the eggs and add the newly hatched chicks in their place.
Problem: Mixing species in a nest.
Solution: Although it is possible to transfer the eggs or chicks of various finch species to a pair of society (or zebra) parents,1 mixing species is generally not recommended if it can be avoided. Mixing species can be problematic because some species will grow faster than others, beg louder, and may outcompete the smaller, more quiet chicks. If, however, you need to mix species, just be sure to transfer eggs or chicks of the same 'age' to the foster pair. For example, if all eggs were laid around the same time, they will hatch at about the same time and reduce the risk of complications. Again, limit each foster pair to six eggs at a time.
Problem: Mixing chicks at different stages of development.
Solution: The best solution for this problem is to avoid it. Older babies may squish or outcompete younger chicks; they also fledge and wean sooner, which typically causes the parents to stop feeding the younger babies (at which point they will need to be hand fed). This is why timing is key: chicks must be of same age/size/etc. to be transferred to and raised successfully by the fosters.
Problem: The increased risk of imprinting.
Solution: In order for a gouldian chick to imprint upon its own species, it must be exposed to other gouldian finches from the 15th to the 40th days of life.3 This is not a problem for gouldian chicks which have been fostered under their same species, but may be a problem for gouldians which are fostered by societies (or zebras). Therefore if you are fostering to a different species, try keeping a cage of adult gouldians near the foster pair's cage, and place all newly weaned gouldian chicks in the same cage with the adult gouldians. In addition to this, keep all society (or zebra) finches out of sight and ear shot of the weaned chicks.1
Fostering is a rearing technique where eggs or chicks are taken away from their biological parents and placed under the care of another pair of the same or a different species.2
Reasons to Foster
Fostering may be used to establish an exotic species,1 to rescue chicks or eggs in the event that the biological parents cannot adequately care for them, or to increase productivity of the parent birds by stimulating them to start another clutch once their eggs/chicks are removed.1,2 If you are going to use fostering as a means to increase production, you should still limit your egg-laying hens to three clutches per breeding season so that the demand on the hen's body does not become too great. Likewise, you should limit your foster pairs to three clutches per season since chick rearing is such a demanding job.
Potential Disadvantages of Fostering
Several problems may result from fostering (or attempting to foster) gouldians. First, foster parents might not accept the eggs and chicks which are placed in their care.2 Second, if you are fostering chicks because their biological parents lack the requisite rearing skills to care for them, you may be inadvertently placing a selection pressure on that undesirable trait. A gouldian's ability to raise its own young is a skill which may not be solely a learned behavior, but have a genetic basis. By fostering the young from an unreliable pair, you are artificially selecting for what nature is attempting to select against: poor parenting skills.
Two other problems may arise due to fostering, but these issues are typically only caused by fostering gouldian chicks to a different species (such as society finches). First, certain infectious agents may be passed from society finch foster parents to the gouldian chicks that they are raising.2 These diseases can be fatal to fledging gouldians, as is the case with cochlosomosis and Campylobacter spp. infections.3 Society finches may be asymptomatic carriers of both of the pathogens responsible for those diseases.3 (On the other hand, society finches can prevent the spread of air sac mites when fostering gouldians because they are not susceptible to those parasites.3)
The second problem caused by fostering gouldians to a different species is an increased risk of imprinting.1 Once a chick has imprinted upon its foster parents, it may prefer to associate more with the species which raised it than it would with other gouldians. This can lead to problems later on, because the imprinted gouldian may refuse to breed with members of its own species.3 In order for a gouldian chick to imprint upon its own species, it must be exposed to other gouldian finches from the 15th to the 40th days of life.3
How to Foster
Step 1: Select an appropriate pair of foster parents. Society (aka Bengalese) finches are the most commonly used (and will breed year-round), but zebra finches or even another pair of lady gouldians may also work. The foster parents should be chosen based on their parenting skills and not their color mutation.1 If time permits, allow unproven pairs to raise a clutch of their own chicks; doing so will allow you to evaluate their potential as foster parents.1 Using a second pair of gouldians as foster parents is ideal because imprinting no longer becomes an issue. Regardless of the species you select as foster parents, make sure that the birds you choose are healthy and free of protozoa, bacteria, and other pathogens that may cause illness or death in the chicks.
Step 2: Synchronize the breeding of the foster pair with the breeding of the parent birds. In order for most potential foster parents to accept eggs or chicks from another pair, they need to be on the same page as the birds they are accepting eggs/chicks from. The foster pair must be set up for breeding to stimulate nesting behavior at or around the same time that the parent birds begin to breed. For best results, house each foster pair in their own enclosure. This is especially important for society finches who often prefer socializing with other munias (when given the option) over breeding. Note that in some cases, a trio of male society finches may successfully foster chicks, but the greatest success is usually gained by using a male-female pair of societies. You may need to set up multiple pairs for fostering1 to increase your chances for success. Be sure to feed your foster pairs an adequate diet for breeding just as you are feeding your gouldians for breeding.
Step 3: Transfer the eggs/chicks from the biological parents to the foster pair. If transferring eggs, allow the biological parents to finish the clutch before you move the eggs into the foster pair's nest. This will improve the chances of the eggs hatching on the same day, which enhances the hatchlings' survival. Replace the foster pair's eggs with the eggs from the gouldian pair(s). Each foster pair should only have 4-6 eggs to care for at a time. Too few eggs in the nest may not be enough stimulation or encouragement for the foster pair to begin incubation, so use additional dummy eggs if necessary. On the other hand, too many eggs in the nest are cumbersome and will hinder successful incubation. If possible, only foster fertile eggs. You will need to candle the eggs after they have been incubated by the fosters for several days to make sure that they are still developing correctly. You may also wish to mark the fostered eggs in some way (with a nontoxic marker or dull #2 pencil) to indicate which biological pair they came from. Society or zebra finch eggs can be left in the nest to be incubated along with the fostered gouldian eggs (as long as no more than six eggs are present in total), however the parents may preferentially care for their own chicks over the fostered chicks, so it is generally advised to avoid fostering multiple species to a given pair at a time.
If transferring chicks, try to place the chicks in another nest which already has chicks of the same species and of a similar age in it. This is especially true for cases in which only a single chick needs to be fostered; adding a single chick to a nest with other chicks of a similar age will yield the best results (parent birds may not feel stimulated to feed just one lone chick). You may also be able to transfer newly hatched chicks to a foster pair which is "sitting tight" on eggs; this tends to occur when a pair is late in incubation and expecting the eggs to hatch soon. Replace some of the foster eggs with the newly hatched chicks. Transferring older chicks to a nest which only has eggs in it may not work (although it is worth a shot if no other options are available). If the fosters refuse to accept the older chicks, you may have to hand feed them. Once again, each foster pair should be limited to raising six or fewer chicks at a time. Any more than six chicks in the nest may be too much demand for the foster pair to keep up with.
Step 4: Monitor the foster pair. Keep an eye on the foster pair and the eggs/chicks they are caring for. If necessary, intervene and hand feed chicks or try switching eggs/chicks from an unreliable foster pair to another pair. Remember to feed your foster pair for breeding just as you would the biological pair; the higher plane of nutrition will allow the parents to provide the chicks with an adequate diet for growth.
Avoiding Problems with Fostering
Problem: Not enough eggs are present to stimulate incubation.
Solution: Try adding dummy eggs to the clutch to increase the number of eggs present under the birds. Birds may not incubate if less than four eggs are present, or may have trouble incubating if more than 6 eggs are present.
Problem: Trying to foster gouldians to a trio of male society finches.
Solution: Because male society finches do not lay eggs, you may have to stimulate them to incubate by tricking them into thinking a clutch of eggs is being laid in their nest. Try adding a dummy egg to their nest each morning until a full clutch of 4-6 eggs is present. If they have begun incubating the clutch, you can swap the dummy eggs out for the fostered eggs.
Problem: Only one baby needs to be fostered.
Solution: One baby alone in a nest may not be a strong enough stimulus to get the parents (biological or foster) to care for it. Ideally, you should try to place this lone baby in a nest which has other babies of the same age and preferably of the same species. If this option is not available, you will probably have to attempt to hand feed the chick.
Problem: Fostering newly hatched babies.
Solution: If possible, transfer newly hatched chicks to a nest with other babies of the same species and age. If this option is not available, try adding newly hatched babies to a foster pair's nest with eggs that are being incubated "tightly." Remove all but one or two of the eggs and add the newly hatched chicks in their place.
Problem: Mixing species in a nest.
Solution: Although it is possible to transfer the eggs or chicks of various finch species to a pair of society (or zebra) parents,1 mixing species is generally not recommended if it can be avoided. Mixing species can be problematic because some species will grow faster than others, beg louder, and may outcompete the smaller, more quiet chicks. If, however, you need to mix species, just be sure to transfer eggs or chicks of the same 'age' to the foster pair. For example, if all eggs were laid around the same time, they will hatch at about the same time and reduce the risk of complications. Again, limit each foster pair to six eggs at a time.
Problem: Mixing chicks at different stages of development.
Solution: The best solution for this problem is to avoid it. Older babies may squish or outcompete younger chicks; they also fledge and wean sooner, which typically causes the parents to stop feeding the younger babies (at which point they will need to be hand fed). This is why timing is key: chicks must be of same age/size/etc. to be transferred to and raised successfully by the fosters.
Problem: The increased risk of imprinting.
Solution: In order for a gouldian chick to imprint upon its own species, it must be exposed to other gouldian finches from the 15th to the 40th days of life.3 This is not a problem for gouldian chicks which have been fostered under their same species, but may be a problem for gouldians which are fostered by societies (or zebras). Therefore if you are fostering to a different species, try keeping a cage of adult gouldians near the foster pair's cage, and place all newly weaned gouldian chicks in the same cage with the adult gouldians. In addition to this, keep all society (or zebra) finches out of sight and ear shot of the weaned chicks.1
Nesting
Gouldians are generally poor nest builders.
They seen to prefer a half open nest box (5"x5" or larger) lined with fine grasses.
Hollow log or half-open nest box 6 X 6 X 10 inches (15 X 15 X 25cm),
Several pairs may share a single hollow. (Rarely, birds will construct a dry grass nest in a bush or tree).
Nesting Material
It is best to deposit some nesting materials in the nest box to get them started.
They seen to prefer a half open nest box (5"x5" or larger) lined with fine grasses.
Hollow log or half-open nest box 6 X 6 X 10 inches (15 X 15 X 25cm),
Several pairs may share a single hollow. (Rarely, birds will construct a dry grass nest in a bush or tree).
Nesting Material
It is best to deposit some nesting materials in the nest box to get them started.
Breeding Period
Gouldians normally breed from September through March. When they are in breeding condition, the colour on their beaks will become darker.
Eggs
3-8 eggs white eggs. Incubating
Both parents share incubating and brooding duties. Incubation
Starts after the 4th egg is laid. Lasts 14 - 16 days.
Fledging
21 - 24 days, independent 29 days later.
Batches
2 or 3 broods a season.
Lifespan
Breeding Life
Sexual Maturity
Goulds are rather slow to mature. They often take 4-6 months to moult into their adult colours.
Aviaries
Temperatures
I read in literature that some heating is necessary in winter & that the humidity should be higher. It may be true but I have kept & got good breading results without any extra heating & humidity. Direct draft is harmful for Gould just like other birds but no extras are needed.
Health Problems
One of the most worrying aspects breeders have when assessing the health of their birds is that we can only visually see the main signs that our birds are unwell towards the end of their illness therefore it is essential that we should have a regular routine whereby ALL birds are inspected and any that are showing signs of not being in their normal condition are attended to without any delay.
Some species of birds can be seen to be very tolerant when it comes to any minor ailments or illness and generally make a full recovery within a few days however Gouldian Finches are a somewhat more delicate species when it comes to health matters and despite all the care and attention given ALL breeders will at some time or another experience deaths within their Gouldian Finch collections .
I have been keeping and breeding birds for well over 35 years now and in all those years I still find very few species of birds that can match the Gouldian Finch in terms of susceptibility towards illnesses and ailments.
So what are the "most common” health problems relating to Gouldian Finches and how do we treat them in our birds?.
Firstly I will begin with what many breeders consider to be the "number one enemy” that is Air Sac Mites.
I have been very fortunate in that all the years I have been keeping Gouldian Finches I have only ever had a few instances of birds suffer from this complaint – however I personally know of several breeders who have not been so lucky as myself and they have lost many Gouldian Finches that had this infection.
The symptoms of Air Sac Mites varies greatly according to the severity of the infection – some birds will only show mild symptoms such as coughing, or open mouth breathing ( often this can be heard with a characteristic clicking sound ).
Other birds may show a nasal discharge and may also be very fluffed up having very little energy and often a high loss of appetite.
Whilst there are many treatments and remedies available for combating this menace in Gouldian Finches ( and most if not all perform very well if one adheres to the full manufacturers instructions ) the product I use as a treatment and preventative is called BLAST – OFF SPOT ON, this product is manufactured by the BIRD CARE COMPANY, to treat the birds you apply one to two drops per 30g body weight of bird to the bare skin between the shoulders. It is recommended by the manufacturers to repeat this treatment three to four times per year for Gouldian Finches.
Another common problem which is however not unique to Gouldians is red mites, these can play havoc with ones birds especially during the breeding season. Red mites can often be very difficult to spot as they tend to be more active during the hours of darkness and are extremely small to the naked eye. Some signs of infection are: fraying around the edges of the birds feathers, birds appear to be suffering from irritation and are constantly preening and often birds are listless and lethargic.
A relatively new product to hit the market and one which I use with outstanding results is called CHECK-MITE by All Creatures Health Check, full details of their products can be found in Cage & Aviary Birds or the companies web site: www.allcreatureshealthcheck.com This product proved to be very successful for a fellow bird-keeping friend who was plagued with red mites and was having great difficulty trying to eradicate them in his bird room. He has only been using Check-Mite for a few weeks but when I visited him last weekend, he was pleased to report that he was having great success since he started using this product.
Gouldian Finches are particularly prone to suffering from Bacteria and Fungal infections.
There are many things that can generate these problems amongst Gouldian Finches however I believe that most can be attributed to poor hygiene standards – therefore I pay very close attention to ensure ALL cages / feed and water containers/ nest boxes and above all food supplied to the birds are spotlessly clean and free from any forms of contamination.
Any soft food and green food given to the birds MUST NOT be allowed to go stale even if it means replacing several times a day particularly in warm weather when it tends to "go off” quicker.
From my own experience of keeping Gouldian Finches I have noticed problems with Bacteria when my birds have access to an outside flight, I have come to the conclusion that this is mainly due to rain water finding it’s way into their aviary and settling in areas where the birds can drink it – therefore I feel it is essential if you do keep Gouldian Finches that have access to an outdoor flight, make sure that their flight it well protected from any penetration of rain water.
Fungal infections are many and varied but in the main I have found that most are caused by poor hygiene or overcrowding of your birds.
There are many commercial products on the market to help bird keepers maintain a clean and healthy environment for your birds and one that i have used with great success is called Saniclens from The Birdcare Company.
Egg Binding is also a common problem amongst Gouldian Finches particularly with young hens during their first breeding cycle. Early symptoms are: birds generally spend all of their time on the cage floor with their feathers fluffed, often with their head tucked under their wing and/or wings are carried low and often spread out. Birds have little to no energy and make no attempt to move if approached.
There are many theories as to the cause of egg binding and many believe it is caused by lack of exercise, birds getting too fat from being fed incorrect diets, lack of protein in the diet and also on occasions, hens that are too old for breeding purposes. I believe that diet deficiencies can play an important role in the cause of egg binding, lack of vitamin A & D3 (vitamin D3 is provide by natural sunlight and green foods are very high in vitamin A – Cod Liver Oil contains a high level of both of these vitamins and I regularly add a few drops of this to soft foods) are known to be one of the major causes of egg binding. I have found through experience that if the bird is treated early enough, the survival rate is generally good. If egg binding is suspected in any of my hens, the way I treat them is by removing the afflicted bird, and "steam" her whilst at the same time VERY gently massaging the vent area using baby oil. Often this treatment has to be repeated several times but normally, within a few hours of the bird being "steamed" and placed into a warm hospital cage she will pass the egg successfully HOWEVER, in order to save any hen suffering death from egg binding, time is off the essence and it is essential to treat the bird as soon as possible.
Steaming: This term refers to an old established method used by many breeders for all species of cage birds and involves filling a non breakable container with boiling water; cover the container with a thin cloth allowing steam to filter through the fabric. The vent area of the bird is then held within the steam – taking care not to burn the bird or damage the egg. The heat vapour can be judged by the hand holding the bird and therefore gives a guide as to the temperature of the steam being emitted.
Although this is a practice that many experienced breeders feel confident in performing, if you have any doubts as to your own ability to perform this task, I would strongly recommend you seek veterinary help – this of course applies to all bird health issues, Gouldian Finches being no exception.
If you spend time attending to hygiene and housing matters there is every reason to expect all the success and enjoyment that this delightful species has to offer, in my opinion there is no bird that can match the beauty of the Gouldian Finch.
Gouldians normally breed from September through March. When they are in breeding condition, the colour on their beaks will become darker.
Eggs
3-8 eggs white eggs. Incubating
Both parents share incubating and brooding duties. Incubation
Starts after the 4th egg is laid. Lasts 14 - 16 days.
Fledging
21 - 24 days, independent 29 days later.
Batches
2 or 3 broods a season.
Lifespan
Breeding Life
Sexual Maturity
Goulds are rather slow to mature. They often take 4-6 months to moult into their adult colours.
Aviaries
Temperatures
I read in literature that some heating is necessary in winter & that the humidity should be higher. It may be true but I have kept & got good breading results without any extra heating & humidity. Direct draft is harmful for Gould just like other birds but no extras are needed.
Health Problems
One of the most worrying aspects breeders have when assessing the health of their birds is that we can only visually see the main signs that our birds are unwell towards the end of their illness therefore it is essential that we should have a regular routine whereby ALL birds are inspected and any that are showing signs of not being in their normal condition are attended to without any delay.
Some species of birds can be seen to be very tolerant when it comes to any minor ailments or illness and generally make a full recovery within a few days however Gouldian Finches are a somewhat more delicate species when it comes to health matters and despite all the care and attention given ALL breeders will at some time or another experience deaths within their Gouldian Finch collections .
I have been keeping and breeding birds for well over 35 years now and in all those years I still find very few species of birds that can match the Gouldian Finch in terms of susceptibility towards illnesses and ailments.
So what are the "most common” health problems relating to Gouldian Finches and how do we treat them in our birds?.
Firstly I will begin with what many breeders consider to be the "number one enemy” that is Air Sac Mites.
I have been very fortunate in that all the years I have been keeping Gouldian Finches I have only ever had a few instances of birds suffer from this complaint – however I personally know of several breeders who have not been so lucky as myself and they have lost many Gouldian Finches that had this infection.
The symptoms of Air Sac Mites varies greatly according to the severity of the infection – some birds will only show mild symptoms such as coughing, or open mouth breathing ( often this can be heard with a characteristic clicking sound ).
Other birds may show a nasal discharge and may also be very fluffed up having very little energy and often a high loss of appetite.
Whilst there are many treatments and remedies available for combating this menace in Gouldian Finches ( and most if not all perform very well if one adheres to the full manufacturers instructions ) the product I use as a treatment and preventative is called BLAST – OFF SPOT ON, this product is manufactured by the BIRD CARE COMPANY, to treat the birds you apply one to two drops per 30g body weight of bird to the bare skin between the shoulders. It is recommended by the manufacturers to repeat this treatment three to four times per year for Gouldian Finches.
Another common problem which is however not unique to Gouldians is red mites, these can play havoc with ones birds especially during the breeding season. Red mites can often be very difficult to spot as they tend to be more active during the hours of darkness and are extremely small to the naked eye. Some signs of infection are: fraying around the edges of the birds feathers, birds appear to be suffering from irritation and are constantly preening and often birds are listless and lethargic.
A relatively new product to hit the market and one which I use with outstanding results is called CHECK-MITE by All Creatures Health Check, full details of their products can be found in Cage & Aviary Birds or the companies web site: www.allcreatureshealthcheck.com This product proved to be very successful for a fellow bird-keeping friend who was plagued with red mites and was having great difficulty trying to eradicate them in his bird room. He has only been using Check-Mite for a few weeks but when I visited him last weekend, he was pleased to report that he was having great success since he started using this product.
Gouldian Finches are particularly prone to suffering from Bacteria and Fungal infections.
There are many things that can generate these problems amongst Gouldian Finches however I believe that most can be attributed to poor hygiene standards – therefore I pay very close attention to ensure ALL cages / feed and water containers/ nest boxes and above all food supplied to the birds are spotlessly clean and free from any forms of contamination.
Any soft food and green food given to the birds MUST NOT be allowed to go stale even if it means replacing several times a day particularly in warm weather when it tends to "go off” quicker.
From my own experience of keeping Gouldian Finches I have noticed problems with Bacteria when my birds have access to an outside flight, I have come to the conclusion that this is mainly due to rain water finding it’s way into their aviary and settling in areas where the birds can drink it – therefore I feel it is essential if you do keep Gouldian Finches that have access to an outdoor flight, make sure that their flight it well protected from any penetration of rain water.
Fungal infections are many and varied but in the main I have found that most are caused by poor hygiene or overcrowding of your birds.
There are many commercial products on the market to help bird keepers maintain a clean and healthy environment for your birds and one that i have used with great success is called Saniclens from The Birdcare Company.
Egg Binding is also a common problem amongst Gouldian Finches particularly with young hens during their first breeding cycle. Early symptoms are: birds generally spend all of their time on the cage floor with their feathers fluffed, often with their head tucked under their wing and/or wings are carried low and often spread out. Birds have little to no energy and make no attempt to move if approached.
There are many theories as to the cause of egg binding and many believe it is caused by lack of exercise, birds getting too fat from being fed incorrect diets, lack of protein in the diet and also on occasions, hens that are too old for breeding purposes. I believe that diet deficiencies can play an important role in the cause of egg binding, lack of vitamin A & D3 (vitamin D3 is provide by natural sunlight and green foods are very high in vitamin A – Cod Liver Oil contains a high level of both of these vitamins and I regularly add a few drops of this to soft foods) are known to be one of the major causes of egg binding. I have found through experience that if the bird is treated early enough, the survival rate is generally good. If egg binding is suspected in any of my hens, the way I treat them is by removing the afflicted bird, and "steam" her whilst at the same time VERY gently massaging the vent area using baby oil. Often this treatment has to be repeated several times but normally, within a few hours of the bird being "steamed" and placed into a warm hospital cage she will pass the egg successfully HOWEVER, in order to save any hen suffering death from egg binding, time is off the essence and it is essential to treat the bird as soon as possible.
Steaming: This term refers to an old established method used by many breeders for all species of cage birds and involves filling a non breakable container with boiling water; cover the container with a thin cloth allowing steam to filter through the fabric. The vent area of the bird is then held within the steam – taking care not to burn the bird or damage the egg. The heat vapour can be judged by the hand holding the bird and therefore gives a guide as to the temperature of the steam being emitted.
Although this is a practice that many experienced breeders feel confident in performing, if you have any doubts as to your own ability to perform this task, I would strongly recommend you seek veterinary help – this of course applies to all bird health issues, Gouldian Finches being no exception.
If you spend time attending to hygiene and housing matters there is every reason to expect all the success and enjoyment that this delightful species has to offer, in my opinion there is no bird that can match the beauty of the Gouldian Finch.
Source :
http://www.zebrafinch.com/gouldians/breedinggoulds.html
http://www.gouldianfinch.info/breeding/handfeeding.htm
http://www.canaryzoo.com/bird%20specie%20gouldian%20finch.htm
http://www.zebrafinch.com/gouldians/breedinggoulds.html
http://www.gouldianfinch.info/breeding/handfeeding.htm
http://www.canaryzoo.com/bird%20specie%20gouldian%20finch.htm